PORT OF ACAJUTLA. 



319 



spoke to me of the deceitfulness of the sea, of ship- 

 wrecks, of the wreck of an American vessel which he 

 had fallen in with on his first cruise in the Pacific, and 

 of his beautiful and beloved France. The freshness of 

 the air was grateful; and while he was entertaining me, 

 I stretched myself on a settee and fell asleep. 



The next day I had a recurrence of fever, which 

 continued upon me all day, and the captain put me un- 

 der ship's discipline. In the morning the maitre d'hotel 

 stood by me with cup and spoon, " Monsieur, un vom- 

 itif," and in the afternoon, " Monsieur, une purge." 

 When we arrived at Acajutla I was unable to go 

 ashore. As soon as we cast anchor the captain land- 

 ed, and before leaving for Zonzonate engaged mules 

 and men for me. The port of Acajutla is not quite so 

 open as that of Istapa, having on the south a slight 

 projecting headland of rock. In the offing were a 

 goelette brig for a port in Peru, a Danish schooner for 

 Guayaquil, and an English brig from London. All the 

 afternoon I sat on the upper deck. Some of the sailors 

 were asleep and others playing cards. In sight were 

 six volcanoes ; one constantly emitting smoke, and an- 

 other flames. At night the Volcano of Izalco seemed a 

 steady ball of fire. 



The next morning the mate took me ashore in the 

 launch. The process was the same as at Istapa, and 

 we were detained some time by the boat of the English 

 vessel occupying the cable. As soon as we struck, a 

 crowd of Indians, naked except a band of cotton cloth 

 around the loins and passing between the legs, backed 

 up against the side of the boat. I mounted the shoul- 

 ders of one of them ; as the wave receded he carried 

 me several paces onward, then stopped and braced 

 himself against the coming wave. I clung to his neck, 



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