A LI H U E L A. 



351 



Atlantic and Pacific by means of the Lake of Nicara- 

 gua and the River San Juan, and my business with Al- 

 varado was to secure him as a guide to the port of San 

 Juan. In half an hour all these arrangements were 

 made, the day fixed, and half the contract-money paid. 

 In the mean time 'Hezoos was busily engaged in draw- 

 ing a black glazed covering over my hat, and fixing in 

 it an American eagle which I had taken off on ship- 

 board. 



There are four cities in Costa Rica, all of which lie 

 within the space of fifteen leagues ; yet each has a dif- 

 ferent climate and different productions. Including the 

 suburbs, Alihuela contains a population of about 10,000. 

 The plaza was beautifully situated, and the church, the 

 cabildo, and the houses fronting it were handsome. The 

 latter were long and low, with broad piazzas and large 

 windows, having balconies made of wooden bars. It 

 was Sunday, and the inhabitants, cleanly dressed, were 

 sitting on the piazzas, or, with doors wide open, recli- 

 ning in hammocks, or on high-backed wooden settees 

 inside. The women were dressed like ladies, and some 

 were handsome, and all white. A respectable-looking 

 old man, standing in the door of one of the best houses, 

 called out "Amigo," "friend," and asked us who we 

 were, whence we came, and whither we were going, 

 recommending us to God at parting ; and all along the 

 street we were accosted in the same friendly spirit. 



At a distance of three leagues we passed through 

 Heredia without dismounting. I had ridden all day 

 with a feeling of extraordinary satisfaction ; and if 

 such were my feelings, what must have been those of 

 'Hezoos ? He was returning to his country, with his 

 love for it increased by absence and hardship away 

 from home. All the way he met old acquaintances 



