364 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



while the plains below were unappropriated, all the way 

 up were potreros or pasture-grounds, and huts occu- 

 pied by persons who had charge of the cattle. 



Our only anxiety was lest we should lose our way. 

 A few months before my companions had attempted to 

 ascend with Mr. Handy, but, by the ignorance of their 

 guide, got lost ; and after wandering the whole night 

 on the sides of the volcano, returned without reaching 

 the top. As we ascended the temperature became 

 colder. I put on my poncha ; before we reached our 

 stopping-place my teeth were chattering, and before 

 dismounting I had an ague. The situation was most 

 wild and romantic, hanging on the side of an immense 

 ravine ; but I would have exchanged its beauties for a 

 blazing coal fire. The hut was the highest on the 

 mountain, built of mud, with no opening but the door 

 and the cracks in the wall. Opposite the door was a 

 figure of the Virgin, and on each side was a frame for 

 a bed ; on one of them my friends spread the bear's 

 skin, and tumbling me upon it, wrapped me up in the 

 poncha. I had promised myself a social evening ; but 

 who can be sure of an hour of pleasure ? I was en- 

 tirely unfit for use ; but my friends made me some hot 

 tea ; the place was perfectly quiet ; and, upon the whole, 

 I had as comfortable a chill and fever as I ever expe- 

 rienced. 



Before daylight we resumed our journey ; the road 

 was rough and precipitous ; in one place a tornado had 

 swept the mountain, and the trees lay across the road 

 so thickly as to make it almost impassable ; we were 

 obliged to dismount, and climb over some and creep un- 

 der others. Beyond this we came into an open region, 

 where nothing but cedar and thorns grew ; and here I 

 saw whortleberries for the first time in Central America. 



