374 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



peparture for Guatimala.— Esparza.— Town of Costa Rica.— The Barranca.— 

 History of a Countryman. — Wild Scenery. — Hacienda of Aranjuez.— River 

 Lagartos.— Cerros of Collito.— Herds of Deer.— Santa Rosa.— Don Juan Jos6 

 Bonilla. — An Earthquake. — A Cattle Farm. — Bagases. — Guanacaste. — An 

 agreeable Welcome. — Belle of Guanacaste.— Pleasant Lodgings,— Cordilleras. 

 — Volcanoes of Rincon and Orosi. — Hacienda of San Teresa. — Sunset View. 

 — The Pacific again. 



On the thirteenth day of February I mounted for 

 my journey to Guatimala. My equipage was reduced 

 to articles of the last necessity : a hammock of striped 

 cotton cloth laid over my pellon, a pair of alforgas, 

 and a poncha strapped on behind. Nicolas had strung 

 across his alvarda behind a pair of leather cohines, in 

 shape like buckets, with the inner side flat, containing 

 biscuit, chocolate, sausages, and dolces, and in front, 

 on the pommel, my wearing apparel rolled up in an ox- 

 hide, after the fashion of the country. During my 

 whole stay at the convent: the attentions of the padre 

 were unremitted. Besides the services he actually ren- 

 dered me, I have no doubt he considers that he saved 

 my life ; for during my sickness he entered my room 

 while I was preparing to shave, and made me desist 

 from so dangerous an operation. I washed my face by 

 stealth, but his kindness added another to the list of ob- 

 ligations I was already under to the padres of Central 

 America. 



I felt great satisfaction at being able once more to re- 

 sume my journey, pleased with the lightness of my 

 equipage, the spirit of my mules, and looked my jour- 

 ney of twelve hundred miles boldly in the face. All at 

 once I heard a clattering behind, and Nicolas swept by 

 me on a full run. My macho was what was called es- 



