400 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



gating the coast of the Pacific, from Peru to the Gulf of 

 California, and has made valuable notes, which he in- 

 tends publishing in France ; and he told me that during 

 the summer months, from November to May, the strong 

 north v^inds which sweep over the Lake of Nicaragua 

 pass with such violence through the Gulf of Papajayo, 

 that, during the prevalence of these winds, it is almost 

 impossible for a vessel to enter the port of San Juan. 

 Whether this is true to the extent that Captain D' Yriarte 

 supposes, and if true, how far steam tugs would answer 

 to bring vessels in against such a wind, is for others to 

 determine. But at the moment there seemed more pal- 

 pable difficulties. 



I walked along the shore down to the estuary of the 

 river, which was here broad and deep. This was the 

 proposed termination of the great canal to connect the 

 Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. I had read and examined 

 all that had been published on this subject in England 

 or this country ; had conferred with individuals ; and I 

 had been sanguine, almost enthusiastic, in regard to this 

 gigantic enterprise ; but on the spot the scales fell from 

 my eyes. The harbour was perfectly desolate ; for 

 years not a vessel had entered it ; primeval trees grew 

 around it ; for miles there was not a habitation. I walk- 

 ed the shore alone. Since Mr. Bailey left not a person 

 had visited it ; and probably the only thing that keeps 

 it alive even in memory is the theorizing of scientific 

 men, or the occasional visit of some Nicaragua fisher- 

 man, who, too lazy to work, seeks his food in the sea. 

 It seemed preposterous to consider it the focus of a great 

 commercial enterprise ; to imagine that a city was to 

 rise up out of the forest, the desolate harbour to be filled 

 with ships, and become a great portal for the thorough- 

 fare of nations. But the scene was magnificent. The 



