January, 191 5.] 



IIII-: ORCHID WORIJ). 



87 



upwards of ten years. Another plant of 

 interest is Bletia Shepherdii. 



The despised Selenipediums, such as 

 Schhmn, cardinale and Domniianum, which 

 may be termed almost perpetual bloomers, 

 and the quaint Bulbophyllums, of which 

 Careyanum pulchellum is m flower, are in the 

 best of good health. The bright Sophronitis 

 grandiflora and the Odontiodas give a nice 

 bit of colour. Several houses are set apart for 

 these and other cool-growing Orchids. 

 Ornithidium Sophronitis is attractive with its 

 bright little flowers, and is now rarely seen 

 in cultivation. Numerous other plants can 

 be seen, including Trichopilia nobilis, Miltonia 

 vexiUaria, Oncidium varicosum, etc., many of 

 which are grown m large quantities. The 

 plants generally are clean and healthy, the 

 Cypnpediums being in excellent condition, 

 while the nursery as a whole is both spick and 

 span, and shows that Mr. Cypher is a master 

 of detail. T. W. B. 



CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE. 



THE following essay by Mr. Walter E. 

 Dadson, Hookfield Gardens, Epsom, 

 was written for the recent competition 

 arranged by The Journal of Horticulture, 

 particulars of which are given on page 65. 



The cultivation of Orchids in these days is 

 not only general but much better understood 

 than formerly. Great quantities find their 

 way to this country each year, the majority 

 of the species being easily within the reach 

 of the purses of most amateurs who are able 

 to maintain a garden. Cypripedium insigne 

 is one of the oldest varieties of the Lady's 

 Slipper Orchid cultivated at the present time. 

 It is a native of Nepal, Northern India, and 

 is one of the easiest to grow, providing a 

 warm greenhouse can be requisitioned for its 

 culture during the winter and spring. Care 

 must be taken not to expose the plants to cold 

 currents of air, therefore the wisest plan is 

 to keep them in the warmest part of the house. 



If the plants are well grown, with strong 

 and healthy foliage, they should be m full 

 flower during the month of December. 

 During the season of growth the compost 



should he well sujjphcd with water, and not 

 until after the flowers have faded should less 

 water be given, even then the roots must not 

 be allowed to get so dry as to cause shrivelling 

 of the leaves. This Cypripedium should 

 never be kept dry in the manner necessary 

 for some Orchids that require a prolonged 

 season of rest. 



The best time to divide and repot the 

 plants is immediately after flowering, as they 

 may then be shaken out without sustaining 

 much check. If left until later they will have 

 commenced to grow, and it is then almost 

 impossible to disturb them without injury to 

 the new growths and roots, both being in a 

 very tender condition. Division of the plants 

 IS best done by carefully unravelling the roots 

 and separating the growths into compact 

 pieces of suitable size. When repotting it is 

 necessary to have ample drainage, and to use 

 the peat in a rough state with plenty of fibre 

 in it. If a little chopped sphagnum and small 

 lumps of charcoal be included so much the 

 better, as this helps to keep it open and 

 porous. Some growers like to have loam with 

 the peat, and if this is fibry the plants do well 

 in it, as it does not become tough and inert. 

 Weak liquid manure will greatly benefit the 

 plants if given about once a week during the 

 growing period. 



During the summer months the plants may 

 be placed in cold frames, where some slight 

 shading from the direct glare of sunshine can 

 be given. A spraying with the syringe 

 morning and evening will keep them clean 

 and encourage the flowering growths. About 

 the middle of September the plants can be 

 transferred to a warm greenhouse. C. insigne 

 does not require anything like the heat 

 needed by many Orchids ; it often does well 

 in a greenhouse or vinery if not kept too hot 

 at the roots. 



When repotting the plants it will be 

 noticed that the best roots are quite close to 

 the surface, where they like to run just under 

 the live sphagnum. They interlace with one 

 another forming quite a network, after which 

 they push down the sides of the pot, clinging 

 so tightly that it is difficult to dislodge them 

 without injurious results. 



