THE ORCHID WORLD. 



[September, 1915. 



atmosphere closer for a short time ; water 

 with great caution until the roots have freely 

 entered the material, when the supply can be 

 increased as required ; but a saturated 

 condition must be avoided always as it causes 

 a sour compost, in which no plant delights. 

 Soft water, whenever obtainable, should be 

 preferred both for root application and 

 spraying, and it should be as nearly as 

 possible of the same temperature as the 

 house ; cold, hard water is liable to cause the 

 young lea\'es to assume a rusty-brown 

 appearance and to check the young growths. 



As these plants continue their growth right 

 through the winter watering must be 

 carefully attended to, and although a 

 minimum temperature of 50 degrees should 

 be aimed at, no real damage will occur if the 

 thermometer falls to 45 degrees. On very 

 cold nights an excellent plan is to cover the 

 glass with mats, and when the blinds are in 

 use they may be let down as additional 

 protection. Excessive fire-heat is never good 

 for plants, so every means must be taken of 

 preventing a loss of heat from the house, and 

 thus reducing the need for highly-heated 

 pipes. 



As the weather improves air must be 

 admitted on all favourable occasions, and the 

 plants frequently damped down as the 

 weather permits. When spikes are devel- 

 oping the plants should be carefully inspected 

 every day for slugs and snails, which are 

 particularly fond of them. As the flowers 

 expand shade is very essential, and all the 

 ventilators should also be opened on bright 

 warm days, so that the house may be kept as 

 cool as possible. 



Scale is rarely found on O. crispum, these 

 cool-house plants being favourite hosts for 

 thrips, which cause much damage to the 

 flower-spikes and disfigure the new growths. 

 Fumigation is generally effectual, care being 

 taken that water is not lodging in the 

 growths, or it may prove a harbour for the 

 thrips until the fumes have passed away, 

 when they will march forth once again on 

 their work of destruction. It is advisable to 

 sponge the leaves once or twice a year with 

 some safe insecticide. The best times are 



just before the plants come into bloom and 

 after repotting. 



Mr. a. R. Moody's Essay. 



This charming Orchid, well known to many 

 under its synonym O. Alexandrae, is 

 undoubtedly first among the cool-house 

 section of orchidaceous plants. A tempera- 

 ture ranging from 45 degrees to 61; degrees 

 suits it admirably, but better results may be 

 achieved with a minimum of 50 degrees. 

 The type, judging from accounts, appears to 

 have been pure white with golden spots on 

 the lip, but imported pieces provide various 

 forms and shades. In recent years many very 

 fine varieties have been introduced in 

 importations, and superb variations, with the 

 petals and sepals so heavily spotted and 

 blotched with purple as to almost exclude 

 the typical whiteness, have been produced by 

 skilled raisers at home. The essential points 

 are fulness of form, regularity and depth of 

 colour of blotches or markings, or pure white 

 combined with good shape. Imported pieces 

 of the type known as " Old Pacho " usually 

 furnish better varieties than others. 



Upon receipt imported plants must be 

 looked over most carefully and all dead and 

 decaying matter removed. It is an excellent 

 plan to dip them in a solution of insecticide 

 to destroy any insect pests which may be 

 lurking in obscure and hidden places. They 

 should then be stood upright in pots or boxes 

 partly filled with crocks and sphagnum moss, 

 m a temperature of from 50 degrees to 

 60 degrees, shaded and lightly sprayed to 

 encourage the dormant " eyes " to start into 

 growth, immediately after which they should 

 be placed in pots just large enough to 

 accommodate them properly. 



A good potting medium consists of two 

 parts of well pulled and chopped Osmunda 

 fibre, one part of Ai fibre, and one part of 

 perfectly cleaned, cut-up sphagnum moss, 

 with a little charcoal and some broken, 

 half-decayed oak leaves. The components 

 must be thoroughly mixed and damped prior 

 to using. Peat still finds favour with many 

 successful growers. It should be of a very 



