56 
THE ORCHID WORLD. 
OUR AMATEURS' PAGE. 
WATERING ORCHIDS. 
It may seem an easy matter to carry out this 
portion of orchid culture, but there is more 
skill required m the opciation than most 
amateurs imagine. A bold way of stating 
the truth is : a plant either requires water or 
do-es not ; the habit of giving a little drop 
each morning is a dangerous method, for 
frequently this amount is only sufficient to 
penetrate an inch or so, with the result that 
the surface is always moist, while the under 
part of the compost is hard and dry. It is 
much the better way to wait until the com- 
post is Hearing the dry side and then give 
sufficient water, either by means of a watering- 
pot or by dipping the plant m a tank, to 
thoroughly soak the material, which will then 
remain moist for several days. 
Rain-water is the only suitable water for 
orchids, and it should be stored in the same 
house as the plants ; by this means it is 
always at a correct temperature to use, and 
there is no risk of chilling the plants as might 
be done if the water is drawn from an outside 
source. 
When orchid collections are situated near 
large towns soot frequently finds its way into 
the storage tanks ; this, and the lime which 
is sometimes used for shading the glass, will 
do no harm, for lime, being a mineral, soon 
sinks to the bottom. On some houses we 
have seen flour and water used for shading, 
and with bad results, for the flour, being vege- 
table matter, quickly ferments and entirely 
prevents the water being used for orchid 
growing. 
We may now consider, in a general way, 
the different classes of orchids and their 
requirements as regards moisture. 
Cypripediums are probably the least diffi- 
cult to manage, for when growing naturally 
they are almost always to be found in soil 
which is continually moist. This might be 
expected, for Nature has not provided them 
with any bulbs with which to store up nutri- 
ment to carry them through a season of 
drought. We must therefore never entirely 
withhold water or allrjw the compost to 
become dry, otherwise serious damage will 
probably result. 
Odontoglossums and Oncidiums require 
moisture during the greater part of the year, 
and delight in having the atmosphere and 
compost \ery moist during the growing 
season ; this moisture should, however, be 
slightly reduced during the depth of winter, 
and also when the plants are in bloom, for 
should a cold night occur the atmospheric 
moisture is very liable to condense on the 
flowers and cause them to spot. In no case 
should water be withheld to such a degree 
as will cause the bulbs to shrivel. 
Cattleyas, Ljplias and Dendrobiums should 
receive a plentiful supply of water when 
making their new bulbs ; this must be con- 
siderably reduced as the bulbs mature, and 
during the winter the plants should only be 
watered when signs of shrivelling are visible. 
The following rules are worth remem- 
bering : 
Always use rain-water about the same tem- 
perature as the house in which the plants are 
growing. 
If in doubt as to whether a plant requires 
water, leave it until the following day. 
Always give a plant sufficient water tc 
moisten the whole of the compost. 
Water the plants early in the morning, and 
if possible select fine days for the work. 
When frosty weather prevails keep the 
plants in a drier state than usual, and do not 
damp down the house so f/equently. 
Never use anything else but pure water ; 
manures are dangerous things for orchids 
except in very experienced hands. 
Do not allow water to remain in the new 
growths or flowering sheaths. 
Never keep the compost in a saturated 
condition ; orchid roots require plenty of air, 
and if the air spaces in the compost are 
always full of water the roots will very soon 
rot. 
When a plant has finished flowering do not 
neglect it by placing it out of sight ; it is at 
this period that it requires all ) our attention 
to assist it in recuperating the vitality and 
strength it has lost through flowering. 
