92 



THE ORCHID WORLD. 



intermediate house will now be growing 

 actively, and as soon as the roots can be seen 

 pushing through the compost more water may- 

 be given, taking care that the compost is dry 

 before applying it ; the water should be, at 

 least, of the same temperature as that of the 

 house. The later flowering varieties, such as 

 M. V. superba, M.v. Leopoldiana, M.v. rubella, 

 may, as soon as the young growths are seen to 

 be making roots, be repotted, using the compost 

 recommended below for Odontoglossums. 



Odontoglossums. Many of these will be 

 pushing their flower spikes, and these, as soon 

 as they get long enough, should be tied to 

 stakes, so that they get the benefit of all the 

 light possible. Any plants of this genus 

 which were missed at the autumn potting may, 

 if they require it, be done towards the end of 

 the month. The compost I use, and which I 

 find satisfactory, is equal parts of peat fibre 

 (from which all the fine particles have been 

 taken), polypodium fibre, osmunda fibre, and 

 sphagnum moss, all mixed together, with a 

 fair amount of drainage in the bottom of the 

 pot. All newly potted plants should be 

 placed by themselves and kept on the dry 

 side until the roots can be seen pushing 

 through the compost. A fev/ Odontoglossums 

 are now in bloom, and with Masdevallia 

 tovarensis, M. Schroderiana, Sophronitis 

 grandiflora, and a few Oncidiums enliven the 

 house at this time of the year by making a 

 nice display 



Sophronitis grandiflora. Should any of 

 these require re-potting it is best done after 

 the flowering period, as new roots are then 

 pushing from the partially made pseudobulbs 

 Shallow pans are the best receptacles, using a 

 size just large enough to accommodate the 

 plant and allow about i inch to 5 inch of 

 compost to be placed about the roots, the 

 compost being the same as for Odontoglos- 

 sums. The plants should be potted moderately 

 firm, and are best grown suspended from the 

 roof, where they are well exposed to light and 

 air ; the cool house will suit them best. 



Cypripediums. The winter flowering sec- 

 tion of this most useful genus will now be 

 making a great show, and in places where 

 fogs are prevalent they are indispensable if a 



supply of flowers is required during the winter 

 months. I find they succeed best in the fol- 

 lowing mixture : — Two parts best fibrous 

 peat, one part polypodium fibre, and one part 

 fibrous loam, with a liberal mixture of sphag- 

 num moss. Keep those newly potted on the 

 dry side ; the others must have water as they 

 require it. The later varieties, such as C. 

 aureum, throwing up their flower spikes, 

 should not be allowed to suffer from want of 

 water, or malformed flowers will be the result. 



Cattleyas will mostly be at rest, and should 

 be carefully watered. There will not be 

 many in flower, but where any quantities of 

 Cattleya hybrids and Laslio-Cattleyas are 

 grown there will always be some in bloom. 

 Cattleya Percivaliana and C. Trianas are 

 already fast pushing up their flower spikes ; 

 these should have water whenever they 

 require it. The atmosphere of the Cattleya 

 house should not be overcharged with mois- 

 ture at this season, as an excess of moisture 

 may do a great deal of harm and be the cause 

 of black spot on the foliage of the plants. 



Laelia anceps and its varieties are now in 

 full flower, and, where grown in quantitv, and 

 well done, are a most desirable class of 

 Orchid. A house of it with its allies L. 

 Gouldiana and L. autumnalis, with its variety 

 alba, make a delightful picture, and the 

 flowers come at a most acceptable season. 

 The plants should be kept moderately dry, 

 but in no case should they be allowed to suffer. 



Coelogyne cristata, and its varieties, pushing 

 up their flower spikes are best accommodated 

 at the cool end of the intermediate house. 



Dendrobiums that are in their resting quar- 

 ters should be looked over from time to time, 

 only enough water being given to prevent 

 shrivelling. Their flowering season should 

 not be hurried, unless it is absolutely neces- 

 sary to have their flowers at an early season, 

 for they will come much finer if allowed to 

 develop slowly and naturally. D. Phalaenopsis 

 and its allies should have a good rest without 

 being removed to another house ; as soon as 

 growth recommences they may have water in 

 moderate quantities. 



Towards the end of the month many 

 species of Aerides and allied genera may, if 



