180 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



It is, however, quite another matter when one has to deal with walls 

 that are two or three centuries old, for not only are such walls generally 

 of exceeding dryness internally, but the mortar is almost cement-like in 

 hardness. In such instances as these, however, it is always best to resort 

 to seeds of known and tried kinds, and such things as Wallflowers, Snap- 

 dragons, Poppies, red Valerian, Kentucky Ivy, Corydalis lutea, Zausch- 

 neria, &c., may be planted with success, provided the moisture given is 

 ample. This, however, is most important. 



Position Helpful. 



Position in such a case is, however, very helpful, and in such walls 

 there are usually present some signs, as Moss, Lichen, &c., that will act as 

 a sort of index to the interior and a guide to the planter. How much or 

 how little may be done with these very old walls depends entirely on 

 circumstances, yet when one finds such widely difi'erent subjects as 

 Arbor- Vit^e, Dandelion, I'ew tree, Red Sage, Scotch Fir, Gooseberry and 

 Currant trees growing without care in very old and dry walls, the gar- 

 dener need have but little fear if only he will try. 



Districts and Stone. 



I need hardly point out that where it is procurable stone is always to 

 be preferred to brick. I hope I have not enlarged too much on the walls, 

 for these are really a most important factor in the case. I will, however, 

 conclude the wall portion of my subject by urging, whether the wall be of 

 stone or brick, a certain provision of soil must be made, and this indeed is 

 quite simple. 



As to Planting. 



We may now briefly consider the planting. Here I think it important 

 to note in those instances where the planting can be done piecemeal, and 

 particularly when the wall is of stone and plants of some size are being 

 inserted, that it is well to build and plant as the work advances. Such 

 work as the building is generally much better done by the interested gar- 

 dener than by the most accomplished bricklayer, for the former does know 

 that soil and space are essential to the growth of plants, and there is no 

 need for clean-struck joints and the plumb-rule when in the garden 

 proper. In this way, perhaps more than any other, are the plants sup- 

 plied with soil direct. The same plan is likewise most helpful where 

 the plants are either long or large rooted. For of course there are walls 

 and walls, some rugged structures that would not be out of place if planted 

 with Mulleins, &c., and others best suited to the more miniature of 

 Alpines. 



Seedlings. 



Small seedlings, during cool and moist weather, may be inserted quite 

 readily if the joints be raked out deeply so that the plant can be inserted 

 without much risk. In all cases of planting into soil joints, where the 

 walls are erected complete, I would suggest seedling plants without 

 hesitation as a first choice, and secondly plants whose free rooting along 

 the procumbent stems renders it possible and quite helpful to divide or 

 pull into small pieces. 



