436 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



wine industry of France when it is limited to acquaintance with the 

 names by which the wines consumed in the United Kingdom are popularly 

 known to the average citizen. 



But beyond being noteworthy for abundance, France stands pre- 

 eminent in this, that she is famous all over the ^^orld, not for one 

 description alone, but for several entirely distinct varieties of wine ; the 

 reputation of all other countries being due to one speciality only. Thus 

 Portugal, in the honour-roll of wine, is famous for Port ; Spain for 

 Sherry; the Island of Madeira for Madeira; Sicily for Marsala; Italy 

 for Chianti ; Germany for Hock ; Hungary and our own Cape Colony for 

 the luscious wines known as Tokay and Constantia. France, however, 

 not only amongst ourselves but everywhere, is alike celebrated for her 

 two distinct varieties of red wine, Claret and Burgundy ; her two 

 varieties of white wine, Chablis and Sauterne ; and her two varieties of 

 sparkling wine. Champagne and Saumur ; while in spirits no one would 

 dispute her right to the highest place for her Cognac brandy. 



Among the principal growers of wino, France is unequalled as a 

 producer of red wines which can strictly be designated "Natural." Port 

 is a wine which has its fermentation checked at a very early stage of the 

 process by the addition of grape-brandy ; and Sherry or Madeira, in 

 virtue of containing added alcohol, although in more limited quantity, 

 are also not, strictly speaking, "Natural" wines. By "Natural" is 

 meant that which is produced most directly from the wine-press by 

 absolutely natural fermentation, without any extraneous help or hin- 

 drance to Nature's process operating in the juice of the grape. This 

 term " Natural " may be said to be applicable, as a general rule, to nearly 

 all wines which are drunk as beverages in the countries of their produc- 

 tion ; but France, in respect of exports to this and other countries, stands 

 first for natural red wines, not only as to quantity, but especially as 

 regards quality. 



In every wine-making department of France there are vineyards 

 which have probably never been heard of outside their own communes, 

 where wines are produced which are admirable as beverages for consump- 

 tion in the districts where they are grown, although they are altogether 

 unsuited for transit either by land or water. 



Even Burgundies, although there are so many varieties which stand 

 the journey by rail perfectly, never taste so well where transit by sea is 

 necessary, as it is to this country ; and especially is this the case with 

 the choicest growths of the Cote d'Or, such as Clos de Vougeot, Romance, 

 Chambertin, Corton, &c. It is indeed a well-known fact that, except in 

 the place of their production, the wines of Burgundy are nowhere found 

 in finer condition than in the adjoining country of Belgium, where they 

 are stored in cellars exceptionally well adapted for the maturing of wine ; 

 for not even in Paris is there such suitable cellarage as in Antwerp and 

 Brussels. 



On the other hand, the wines of the Bordeaux district are so beauti- 

 fully balanced in all their component parts, and are so perfectly 

 fermented, that they travel all over the world without injury. It may 

 be said with truth that Clarets, be they Chateau Margaux, or Lafite, or 

 the growth of a small peasant-proprietor in St. Julien or St. Estephe, 



