VINE CULTURE AS EXEMPLIFIED AT THE PARIS EXHIBITION. 447 



the wines of that northern district of France were often too unripe, not 

 to say sour, for use, until the accidental addition at one of the monasteries, 

 as it is said, of a little sugar set up a second fermentation, which burst all 

 the bottles not strong enough to withstand the process, revealing the 

 sparkling wine we now know as Champagne. 



The nearest approach to Port has been effected in the case of Tarragona 

 (often called Spanish Port) ; but even here — though their neighbours' 

 every procedure has been studied — the imitation has only succeeded in 

 getting fairly near to the lowest grades of true Port in a wine which, 

 however suitable for general consumption, cannot commend itself to a 

 critical palate, being still regarded, on the market, as silver — not to say 

 bronze — is to gold in value. 



If some of our Colonial brethren can find a rugged sun-trap like the 

 Douro Valley, with craggy sides steep sloping to the river, of similar 

 geological formation, and under skies of sunshine of equal but not sur- 

 passing heat, they will have a spot for making Port within our own 

 Empire which yet may equal that of our old friend in war and wine — 

 Portugal. 



At an early stage of the fermentation of Port wine there is added a 

 certain proportion of brandy — distilled wine — the addition of which 

 prevents further development of alcohol from the saccharine of the grape. 

 The sugar therefore remains, up to the proportion necessary to make the 

 wine what it is — full and round upon the palate, with a sweetness which, 

 since it is the preserved saccharine of the grape, cannot be called altogether 

 artificial, except in the sense that man has intervened in nature's process 

 and checked it for a purpose. Where the wine of the Douro is of super- 

 lative body, flavour, and suitability, it is sent here as a vintage wine, 

 under the title of its year, within the second or third year of its existence. 

 It is bottled generally when two or three years old, and then remains the 

 full-coloured and full-bodied wine which, after a lengthy period in bottle 

 is so much admired. If not sold as a " vintage " wine it remains in wood, 

 depositing its colour and other solids very much more rapidly than if in 

 bottle, and gradually assuming that tawny colour, lighter and lighter by 

 age, which we see in the draught Port wines of everyday consumption. 

 We give below the statistics of the shipments, showing the large quantity 

 taken by Great Britain as compared with all other countries of the world, 

 with the single exception of the Brazils. 



Exports, in Gallons, of Wine rnoai Portugal to all Countries from 



1891 to 1900. 



Year 



England 



Brazil 



All other Countries 



TotJil 



1891 



4,383,225 



4,380,580 



1,768,355 



10,532,160 



1892 



5,841,080 



6,198,500 



1 ,442,560 



13,482,140 



1893 



3,372,950 



6,189,530 



1,411,510 



10,973,990 



1894 



3,109,515 



5,153,725 



1,326,065 



9,649,305 



1895 



3,588,230 



5,709,175 



1,418,065 



10,715,470 



189(5 



3,861,240 



6,848,710 



1,530,190 



12,240,140 



1897 



4,024,080 



6,002,885 



; 1,493,275 



11.520,240 



1898 



4,725,695 



6,438,965 



1,604,365 



12,769,025 



1899 



4,222,225 



5,251,015 



1.57L590 



11,044.830 



1900 



4,038,570 



5,427,540 



1,613,220 



11,079,330 



