SCOTLAND. 



579 



out of the ground. The traveler approaches a httle nearer, and perceives, that it proceeds 

 from a collection of low mounds, or hillocks of mud, and it is only upon a closer survey, that 

 he discovers them to be human habitations. These black huts, as they are appropriately named, 

 consist of 4 low mud walls, with a roof of ill-thatched heather ; the smoke coming out of the 

 door, which serves as a chimney, or not unfrequently the people going in at the chimney, which 

 serves as a door. Within this miserable dwelling, the whole establishment, consisting of men, 

 women, and children, 7 or 8 lank-looking Highland ponies, called siielties, and half a dozen 

 starving cattle, are usually assembled promiscuously round a peat fire, in the middle of the 

 room ; a few rude wooden benches, and one or two chaff beds, in niches, with coarse blankets, 

 manufactured by the people, form the articles of furniture. The whole is enveloped in a cloudy 

 atmosphere of smoke, with an overpowering smell of peat, tobacco, and whisky. 



The better tenantry are contented with the luxury of a separate chimney and door ; and the 

 addition of an outhouse for the cattle and ponies. Individuals, worth 4 or 5,000 dollars, are 

 often perfectly satisfied with a similar habitation. When they are obliged by order of the propri- 

 etor to leave their huts, they carry most of the rude materials along with them, for the con- 

 struction of others upon the same plan. Till within late years, they had no gardens atlaclied 

 to these dwellings. A few cabbages and onions are now cultivated in a spot of ground near 

 each hut ; but this being considered an innovation, was introduced with difficulty ; and a stand 

 was made against it by all enemies to reform. Carts are unknown ; a crooked spade with a 

 long handle, serves instead of a plough. A laboring man will work for a whole day with no 

 other food than a few handfuls of oatmeal moistened with cold water. Their principal food 

 consists of cakes made of barley or oatmeal, dry and burnt, witli a strong smell of peat smoke ; 

 salt herrings, when they can be procured, and miserable potatoes. They also eat a species of 

 sea-weed, called dulse-and-tangle, either raw or boiled, and prepared like spinach. In years 

 of scarcity, whole families have subsisted upon sea-weed and small shell-fish, such as cockles, 

 buckies, and periwinkles. 



The chief source of profit to the West Highland proprietors, is in the manufacture of kelp, 

 which is used in making soap, glass, &c. The kelp is made from sea-weed, which grows on 

 the rocks, and produces a regular crop, cut down every second year with sickles, in the same 

 manner as corn. It is collected when the rocks are uncovered at low tide, and carried out in 

 boat-loads to the nearest island. It is then left to dry in the sun, and afterwards burnt. On a 

 dark night, the numerous kelp-fires produce a singular effect. On these occasions, all the vil- 

 lages are deserted, and the inhabitants bivouac in the open air till the kelp harvest is ended. 

 Vessels are sent from Liverpool to take in the cargoes. A great part of these islands is cov- 

 ered with large tracts of sand which, it is feared, will eventually overspread a great portion of 

 the arable land. Various attempts have been made to stop the progress of this flying sand, 

 which frequently blows from one island to another. The only experiment which has in some 

 measure succeeded, has been in the planting of bent, a species of long grass, with a remark- 

 ably strong root, which not only fixes the sand, but renders it capable of producing rich clover 

 and excellent pasture for cattle. 



Gaelic is still the universal language of the Highlands, though P]nglish is spoken by those who 

 are in the habit of visiting the Lowlands. The religion is Roman Cailiolic and Presbyterian. 

 In North and South Uist, and Lewis, the former is most prevalent. Presbyterianism is more 

 common in the other islands. The women, with a few exceptions, are almost universally ugly, 

 owing to hard work and constant exposure to bad weather. The men are better looking, lazy, 

 and not strong. They are an unprovident race ; careless of the future, and extravagantly fond 

 of dancing to the bagpipes and singing. Tobacco and whisky are their great luxuries. The 

 poverty of their food and wretched manner of living, render rheumatic complaints and premature 

 decay very common ; yet there are various intances of extraordinary longevity among the inhab- 

 itants. They are all good seamen, fearless, and daring ; and where they have been induced 

 to emigrate, they have been usually remarked for quickness of perception, and a good natural 

 capacity. But no land, however favored by nature, or adorned by art, appears to the High- 

 lander equal in beauty to his own barren rocks and heathery moors ; and in these Western 

 Islands, scarcely an instance is known of any individual, however distant his wanderings, who 

 has not returned to lay his bones in the shadow of his own native hills. 



It is a common sport, or rather a frequent employment, at St. Kilda, and other islands, to 

 gather among the crags the eggs of the sea-fowl, and catch the birds themselves ; compared 



