xii 



CONTENTS. 



plague of mosquitoes — Dread of Indians — Politeness 

 on the Pampas — A false alarm — A pleasant night's 

 rest — Improved climate and renewed health — Results 

 of an Indian visitation— Another false alarm — A hard 

 bed — Arrival at St. Luis. . . .196 



CHAPTER XIII. 

 St. Luis — Inopportune curiosity — Spanish credulity — 

 Ill-timed severity — Represa — An agreeable disappoint- 

 ment — A restive horse — A grumbling postmistress — 

 A horse-hunt — Distant view of the Andes — Crossing a 

 river — Foxes and hares . . . 224 



CHAPTER XIV. 

 A loss and recovery — An overthrow — La Rosa — Im- 

 proving aspect of the country and the people — Hand- 

 some treatment — First sight of Mendoza — Arrival 

 there — Quick travelling — Mendoza — Its architecture 

 — Public promenade — The Andes — Equestrian habits 

 of the people — Mendoza wine — Products of the soil — 

 Superiority of Mendoza to Buenos Ayres — An agree- 

 able arrival — Silver-mines of these regions . 239 



CHAPTER XV. 

 Preparations for leaving Mendoza — Provisions for the 

 journey— Curiosity — Departure — Halt for the night — 

 Learned ladies — Ercilla's poetry, and the aborigines of 

 the Pampas — Retrospective glance at the plains and 

 their inhabitants — Sketch of the Patagonians . 257 



Appendix 



289 



