98 



THE GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



February 3, 1912, 



WORK FOR THE WEEK- 



THE ORCHID HOUSES. 



MASDEVALLIAS.— The pure white flowers 

 of Masdevallia tovarensis are now making a 

 fine show in the cool house, and will last a 

 long time in perfection, provided no moicsturo 

 is allowed to settle upon them. After the 

 flowers have fallen, the plants will soon 

 commence to grow, and then will be the best 

 time to repot them. Any plantr> which have 

 become bare in the centre should be broken 

 up, and either be made up into a specimen 

 again, or the portions may l)e potted sepa- 

 rately in small receptacles. I prefer what 

 are known as half-pots, as the plantrv re- 

 quire no very great depth of compost. These 

 ■should be tilled to about one-third their 

 depth with clean crocks, covering these 

 lightly with a layer of clean sphagnum moss, 

 and adding a compost of equal ])arts of peat, 

 polypodium or osmunda fibre, and sphag- 

 num, with a fair sprinkling of half-decayed 

 leaves, which have l)eeu rubbed through a 

 half-inch sieve. 



THE CHIMAERA GROUP.— This is also 

 an excellent time to give additional rooting 

 space to M. Chimaera, M. Bella, M. Carderi, 

 M. Chestertoni, M. Gongora. and others of 

 the Chimsera section. These should be 

 grown in .shallow teak wood baskets, as their 

 flowers are produced from descending sterns ; 

 no crocks must be used for drainage, but, in- 

 stead, p>ome fern rhizomes may be used to 

 prevent the compost being washed through. 

 All ma.sdevallias are liable to attacks of red 

 spider and yellow thrips, and these pests must 

 l)e kept in subjection by frequently spraying 

 and sponging the leaves with some weak in- 

 r-ecticide. 



THE COOL HOUSE.— There are manv 

 plants in this liouse, particularly Odonto- 

 glo<*sum crispum and it varieties and hybrids, 

 that are now developing tlieir flower spikes. 

 These should be frequently examined, other- 

 wise the spikes may l>e devoured by i>lugs 

 before the grower is aware that they are 

 showing, llie usual means of trapping slug^s, 

 woodlice, and other pests should l)e continu- 

 ally in use. The plants may l>e kept fairly 

 moist at the roots, but do not water a plant 

 until the comport is dry. It is very detri- 

 mental to the plants to allow large spikes 

 of bloom to remain on them for a lon<y time, 

 or to permit small or unhealthy plants to 

 carry too many flowers. 



OXCIDIUMS of the macranthum section, 

 such as O. superbiens. O. undnlatum, and O. 

 macranthum itself, that aie >lii>wiiig flower 

 spikes, will for some time to cdiiic need con- 

 stant attention, as, owing to the rambling 

 habit of tlie spikes (wiiich often grow many 

 feet in length) some kind oi training ir> ne- 

 cessary. Three or four strong stakes may 

 be placed firmly near the edge of the pots, 

 and the spikes trained around these, keeping 

 the spikes at first as low down as possible. 

 J. T. Earker, West Hill Gardens. 



STOVE PLANTS. 



CODI.TIUMS. — During late years some 

 splendid varieties of the useful crotons or 

 codiseums have been introduced, many of 

 them great improvements upon older varie- 

 ties, so that we mav well discard some and 

 grow only the best. To obtain symmetrical 

 specimens with the whole of the foliage 

 richly coloured, they should have a house 

 or pit devoted to them, as they can then be 

 given that special treatment so essential to 

 success. Abuiulance of heat and moisture, 

 aufl s( arrely any shade, are nect-s.-^ai y during 

 the growing sea.son. Now is a good time to 

 overhaul the plants and well cleanse the 

 structure. Any plants that have l>ecome 



^^^g^y .^^>f>*il<i placed on one side for pro- 

 pagation. Repot all specimens that are in- 

 tended to be grown on. 'Vnvn each plant out 

 of the pot and reduce the old ball of soil 

 and roots, carefully, with a pointed stick, 

 and repot in the size of pot most suitable for 

 the requirements of the place. I^t the pots 

 be quite clean and well drained. ITie com- 



post should consist of three parts rich fibrouis 

 loam, and one part peat, adding plenty of 

 sharp sand, small nodules of mortar rubble, 

 and charcoal. 



RINGING CODIiEUMS. — 'The method 

 of ringing tops of oMi plants^ that have 

 grown loggy is the best for producing 

 good specimens quickly, and this may now^ 

 be performed. This method is now very 

 much practised, and need not be ex- 

 plained in detail in these notes. To 

 increase any particular variety in large 

 numbers, the smaller side-shoots may also 

 be taken off and inserted in small pots filled 

 with sandy soil, and plunged to the rim in 

 the propagating bed, 



CALADIUMS. — These also should be 

 potted up with as little delay an possible. 

 Many losses occur through leaving the corms 

 too long dormant. Use a similar compost to 

 that recommended for gloxinias, and avoid 

 over-potting. It i« far better to repot into 

 larger receptacles later on when new roots 

 are formed. Use sharp sand freely both 

 under the corms and round about them. The 

 useful miniature C. argyrites should be 

 grown largely, and 6()-size note are large 

 enough for them. A high teTnperature and 

 plenty of moisture are necessary to these 

 plants, especially immediately after they are 

 potted up. If the pots can be plunged in a 

 hotbed so much the better for a rapid start 

 into growth. — H. T. Martin, Warren Wood 

 Gardens. 



FRUITS UNDER CLASS. 



PINE APPLES.— At this season of the year 

 great care should be exercised in giving 

 water to the plants ; they .should be ex- 

 amined at least once a week, and if the soil 

 is at all dry, sufficient w^ater, at a tem- 

 l>erature equal to that of the bottom-heat, 

 should be given to thoroughly soak the soil 

 and roots. Fruiting plants will require a 

 bottom-heat of 8() degrees, and a house tem- 

 l>erature of 70 degrees at night, with 75 de- 

 grees by day, allowing a rise of 10 degrees 

 with sun heat ; admit air on all favourable 

 occasions, but in such a manner as not to 

 materially lower the temperature. For suc- 

 cessional plants a bottom-heat of from 70 to 

 75 degrees will be sufficient, with a house 

 temperature of from 60 to 70 degrees. Pre- 

 pare a sufficient quantity of fairly dry soil 

 for potting, also a supply of tan or leaves for 

 plunging purposes; this work will greatly 

 facilitate operations when a general shift is 

 given to the plants at the latter end of this. 



Pine- 

 heavv, 

 should 



or the beginning of next, month, 

 apples will not succeed in a close, 

 retentive soil; a light fibrous loam 

 be used, broken up roughly, A good mix- 

 ture is as follows — to every five barrowfuls of 

 loam, add one barrowful of oak or beech 

 leaf-mould, half a bushel each of crushed 

 bones and charcoal, a good sprinkling of old 

 moilar rubbishy and well pulverised cow 

 manure. 



EARLY VINES.— Stopping the laterals 

 will now it'cjuire constant attention. Pinch 

 the i)(>int- out of the young growth.*; two 

 leaves l.cyond the fruit', and stop all sub- 

 laieiai.N at <me leat ; carefully draAV away 

 with thin raffiii any growtlis ihat are mar 

 the glas^, hut at the same time tiie tinal 

 tieing down, and the pro])er regulating of 

 the growths must be deferred until the 

 flowering period, when, with ordinary care, 

 there is no risk of the shoots breaking off. 

 Tliin the bunches to the requ'red number 

 immediately it can be seen which are the 

 best to select ; admit air in suitable weather, 

 and maintain a moist atmosphere until the 

 flowering period, when drier conditions 

 should prevail, until the berries are set. 



SECOND EARLY VINE 



riive the bor- 



ders a good soaking with clean water, after- 

 wards closing the house; commence with a 

 night temperature of 45 degrees, and from 

 50 to 55 degrees by day. Syringe the rods 

 and damp down the house once or twice a 

 day to generate a moist atmosphere. When 

 the buds commence to swell gradually in- 

 crease the night teni]>orature to 60 degrees 

 in the daytinu^ 



o'-tar 



CUCUMBERS.— Fruiting plants will 

 benefited by frequent top-dressings with a 

 light rich compost, also with occasional 

 doses of weak liquid manure, or some ap- 

 proved chemical stimulant; pinch the 

 laterals at the second leaf, carefully tie in, 

 and thin the growth sufficiently to avoid over- 

 crowding. Syringe the plantti when pos- 

 sible, and maintain a moist atmosphere by 

 damping down the house several times a 

 day. Little or no air should be given at tliie 

 season of the year. Maintain a minimum 

 night temperature of 60 degrees^ and a day 

 temperature of 70 degrees, allowing a rise 

 of 10 to 15 degrees with sun heat. Place 

 young plants in their fruiting quarters as 

 soon as ready, and sow more seeds for suc- 

 cession. 



TOMATOES.— The earliest plants will 

 ready for their fruiting quarters, either ir 

 pots, boxes, or borders undorgLass. U^i a 

 compost 01 three parts good loam and one 

 part leaf-mould, with a little old 

 rubbish added. Make the soil very firm as 

 planting proceeds. Sow a small quantity of 

 seeds thinly in a light comport, and place in 

 a temperature of &) degrees. Put the seed- 

 lings into 3in. pots when fit to ht*adle^ aid 

 place near the glass. If carefully attended 

 to these plants will supply a good quantity 

 of fruit next June. — H. R. Farmkr, Cardiff 

 Castle Gardens. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



SEED SOWING.— To obtain strong sturdy 

 specimens of certain kinds of summer-flower- 

 ing plants, seeds should be sown at the pre- 

 sent time in gentle heat. Fairy Queen Be- 

 gonia, Ricinus, and verbenas should be sown 

 at once. Sow thinly, and as soon as the 

 seedlings appear give them a position near 

 the glass in a house with a temperature of 

 about GO degreec*. When large enough to 

 handle, prick them off separately into small 

 60's, and grow in the same temperature. 



PENTSTEMONS.— Those that were rooted 

 from cuttings in the autumn are now ready 

 to be put separately in 6()-sized pots, and 

 if given this treatment they will make 

 sturdy specimens by the time for planting 

 out. Keep them in a cold frame and protect 

 from frost during severe weather. Pentste- 

 mons can be raised from seed sown now in 

 shallow boxes, and these seedlings will flower 

 late in the summer, if they are pricked out 

 when large enough, and carefully grown 

 until planting time. 



EAST LOTHIAN STOCKS.— These are very 

 popular, and are especially useful for bed- 

 ding purposes, as they make a fine display, 

 and produce handsome flower spikes under 

 good cultivation. 



THE RECENT SNOW.—Owing; to the 

 heavv fall of snow recentlv experienced in 

 many places, outdoor operations have beeu 

 considerably hindered, and, unfortunately, 

 much damage has been done to conifers and 

 evergreen trees where it was not possible to 

 relieve them of the weight o.' snow soon 

 enough. In many cases, large limbs and 

 smaller branches have been split off, and the 

 resulting snags must be carefully cut k 

 witli saw and pruning knife, afterwards ap- 

 plying a dressing of gas tar to the cuts. In 

 the case of cupressus, Irish yews, and other 

 trees of a similar nature, where the branches 

 are bent out. they must be tied back into 

 position with strong cord or wire, but when 

 the latter is used, it is necessary to place a 

 pad of cloth or leather next to the branch 

 to prevent the wire cutting into the bark. 



THE SHRUBBERIES.— The present time 

 affords a good opportunity for examining the 

 stakes and ties of all trees and shrubs, aim 

 after the recent weather a good many 

 require attention. Complete planting as soon 

 ])<>ssible, so that the soil may become 

 ut'll settled around the roots before the 

 growtli commences. It is well to d'g or fork 

 over the shrubberies now, but when doin^ 

 this take care not to damage the roots 

 any of tlie valuable or surface-rooting 

 shrubs. Df> not break .up the soil too finely- 

 at* it will crumble down later on. — J. Gabp- 

 NER, Batsford Park Gardens. 



