244 



THE GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



March 23, i912. 



should be given as early as possible in the 

 morning, and increased dnring the day. In- 

 sect- pests will increase rapidly, consequently 

 vaporising must be resorted to frequently. 

 Lewis Smith, Shotesliam Park Gardens. 



THE ORCHID HOUSES. 



Til E C ATTLEY A HOU SE . — For some 

 time to come, the inmates of this house will 

 need attention, as the various species and 

 hybrids rjeaoli the condition necessary .to 

 repotting. Tliis family comprises the most 

 Ix^autiful of all orchids, and those that a 

 great many find difficult to keep in a satis- 

 factory coiidition over a series of years.. This 

 ib not as it should l>e, as under proper con- 

 ditions cattleyas are easily grown. I do not 

 pretend to be able to give the cultural details 

 of this large family in one week's notes. 



VARIOUS SPECIES.— C. Percivaliana is 

 the first to bloom, and opens its lovely flowers 

 in January and February. This should be 

 repotted now, provided it is alx)ut to push 

 forth new roots. It should be grown in a 

 position where it will receive the maximum 

 amount of light and a free circulation of 

 air. After repotting, and until re-estab- 

 lished, thev should be carefully shaded and 

 watered. " C. Trianae follows, makes a 

 grand display from February to April, and 

 is a most variable species, and there is a 

 large percentage of inferior varietie-s among 

 an importation, therefore good varieties 

 should be taken care of. C. Mendelli and C. 

 Sehroderae are the next to open their flowers, 

 and these last through April and May; and 

 then, in June, we have C. Mossiae and C. 

 Warneri. In July and August C. AVar- 

 scewiczi (gigas) and C. Gaskelliana are con- 

 spicuous. With many C. Warscewiczi is con- 

 sidered a shy bloomer, and undoubtedly there 

 are individual plants that take some per- 

 suading to produce flowers. Then comes, for 

 September, the beautiful C. Dowiana and 

 its variety aurea, followed up in November 

 by C. labiata. This latter is tlie species 

 which the majority of growers have the 

 greatest difficulty with, and often, in spite 

 of all that can ^be done for it, it will de- 

 teriorate. 



TEMPERATURE. — When growing cat- 

 tlevas it is advisable to put them into two 

 cla^s— the warm and the cool; they can 

 be accommodated in one house by growing 

 one set at the warm end and the other at 

 the cool end. Where large quantities of cat- 

 tleyas are grown it is much better to pro- 

 vide a house for each section. Tliose which, 

 require the warm position include C. Warsce- 

 wiczi, C. Dowiana and its variety aurea, C. 

 Lawrenceana, C. Warneri, C. Eldorado, C. 

 siiperba C. Luddemaniiiana, and C. inter- 

 media. 'For the cooler position, such species 

 as C. Mossiae, C. Mendelli, C. Gaskelliana, C. 

 Percivaliana, and C. Ilarrisonse are suitable. 

 There are hvbrids which may be accommo- 

 dated in the 'same house, but which space will 

 not allow me to deal with at the present 



time. 



POTTING CATTLEYAS.— Whenever they 

 are pushing new roots, it is desirable to pot 

 cattleyas if the compost in which they are 

 crowing is at all sour or decayed, llie old 

 decaved compost should be removed as far 

 as T^ssible, without causing injury to the 

 roots They should be placed in receptacles 

 that will hold them comfortably; but be- 

 ginners should guard against overpottmg. 



COMPOSTS.— The compost in whicli our 

 cattlevas are grown consists of equal por- 

 tions of peat, polypodium, Al, and osmunda 

 fibre, and sphagnum moss, all thoroughly 

 cleaned, and used in a rough state. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



GRAFTING,— As there is every prospect 

 of an early fruit season, the api)earance of 

 the trees indicating active movement of the 

 sap, grafting— more particularly in the 

 warmer parts of tbe country— will require 

 immediate attention. For effecting quick 

 propagation of new or choice varieties of the 

 app.e, pear, plum, or cherry, grafting is oi 

 the utmost importance, although, m the case 

 of plums and cherries, budding is more 

 generallv the method employed. There are 

 varieties of pears which need to be worked 

 a second time as they do not succeed per- 

 fectly on the first graft, either upon the pear 

 or quince stock. Strong growing pears form 

 the best stock upon which the weaker sorts 

 mav be regrafted. Orchard trees which are 

 in a liealthy condition, but either produce 

 fruits of little or no value or bear indif- 

 ferently, may, by grafting, be converted 

 into profitable specimens in a comparatively 

 sliort space of time. Tliere are plenty of 

 excellent varieties from whicli _ to select 



^ the is-ees 



either for market or private use. Ii 

 are large, crown grafting is the most suit- 

 able method to adopt, and from three to six 

 scions may be inserted according to tlie size 

 of the tree. This applies to trees with stems 

 up to lOin. in diameter, when sawn through 

 five or six feet from the ground. If the in- 

 tention is to graft on the branches they 

 should not be cut back too close to the main 

 stem, and from one to three scions be in- 

 serted, according to the size of the branch. 

 Stems half an inch or so in diameter are 

 best whip grafted. There are several 

 methods of grafting, but whip grafting and 

 crown and wedge grafting are those most 

 generally adopted. A sharp knife is. needed 

 for preparing both stocks and scions, and 

 whatever method is followed the work should 

 be done expeditiously. Tlie scions should 

 be about nine inches in length, and the 

 wood must be clean and well ripened. 



WHIP GRAFTING.— Remove a slip of 

 bark and wood with a clean cut, to fit 

 exactly with .a corresponding cut whicli must 

 be made in the scion ; a sloping cut must 

 now be made in the scion, and a similar slit 

 made in the stock to receive the tongue of 

 the scion ; care must be taken that the scion 

 fits bark to bark on one side at least; bind 

 the grafts fairly firm and cover with graft- 

 ing wax. 



CROWN GRAFTING.— Slice a piece off 

 the low^er part of the ycion, alwut two inches 

 long; make a slit the same length in the 

 bark of the stock, then carefully raise the 

 bark with a smooth, flat-pointed stick and 

 insert the scion. 



WATERING.— After the plants are potted 

 keep them rather drv until the now root^ are 

 seen to be entering the new corniest. W hen 

 nicely established they should have an abun- 

 dant supply of water, taking care that the 

 compost becomes dry l>ctween each watering. 

 I do not believe in drihbling water into 

 cattb-va^- when drv give them a thorough 

 soakiiiir and then allow them to become drv 



T. Bakker, Tlie AVest Hill 



WEDGE GRAFTING.— As the name indi- 

 cates, a cleft or division is made in the stock 

 to receive the scion, which is cut like a 

 wedge; care must be taken that at least on 

 one side the bark fits to bark. In both 

 crown and Avedge grafting bind the grafts 

 fairly firm and cover with grafting wax or 

 clay to exclude the air. The clay sbould be 

 well kneaded, and some finely-chopped chaff 

 and cow uuuiviic im-!!i-p{irated with the clay 

 to prevent it ciacking and falling off. 



i; KM A U KS.— As there is an abundant 

 show of Hower V)uds on the pear trees, they 

 should be examined, and where necessary, 

 some flower buds should be i*emoved to 

 lighten the strain on the trees; extension 

 growths may lie sliowing flower buds at the 

 tips if not properly pruned back to a wood 

 bud, and this shoidd be remedied at once. 

 Examine stakes and ties supporting young 

 trees and renew in botli cases where neces- 

 sarv. When tying allow sufficient room for 

 the"^ swelling growth. Labels fastened on the 

 trees with Vire are often overlooked, and 

 much damage occurs bv tlie wire cutting 

 into the bark where siifli( i<-nt sn;u-e is not 

 allowed for expansi*«n .—W. 

 Woolverstone Park (;arclcll^. 



the most forward plants on sheltered sunnv 

 borders, in soil that has been deeply dug, 

 and liberally manured ; plant firmly, and at 

 distances according to the variety, the lesser 

 kinds at eighteen inches apart. Utilise 

 screens of evergreen branches to break cold, 

 cutting winds, and assist quick growth. The 

 small plants of this batch can be planted on 

 the ordinary quarters to form a succession. 

 If at all dry, water immediately after plant- 

 ing. If slugs are known to be in the land, 

 place a ring of finely sifted cinder ashes 

 around each plant at planting time. Mag- 

 num Bonum, Walcheren, and Early Giant 

 are well proved varieties. 



SPRING SOWN CAULIFLOAYEES of the 

 early types- should now be in cold frames 

 hardening off; pull the lights off when 

 w^eather permits. A good batch of these 

 ftmall kinds is valuable if planted in cold 

 and other frames at fifteen inches apart, 

 and hurried on as fast as is safe, to form 

 small early heads. Water regularly, and 

 sbut up eaxly and spray overhead daily. 

 Make a sowing of Autumn Giant and Earlv 

 Giant. 



CARROTS.— The main crop should now be 

 sown in ground that has been specially pre- 

 pared ; too much care cannot be given to the 

 preparation of the soil. If it is intended to 

 sow on ground that was previously cropped 

 with early i^lerv, trench or deeply dig it, 

 adding road scrapings, fine leaf-soil, and 

 mortar dust, with a quantity of soot and 

 even any peat dust that may be on hand, 

 should the ground be heavy. Tlie plot 

 should be dry on the surface when preparing 

 for sowing. A dressing of burnt garden re- 

 fuse should be given, and the surface oe 

 then brought into a fine tilth. Rake and 

 level, and draw drills one inch deep and one 

 foot apart. It is time profitably spent it tne 

 seeds are covered witb finely sifted old pot- 

 ting soil. To procure good exhibition, root, 

 holes should be bored to a depth ot ti w 

 feet and fifteen inches apart, and these tiU^^ 

 in firmly with three parts sandy loam, one 

 part burnt garden refuse, road f^^V^^^'^ 

 and one quart of bone meal to each bario^v 

 ful of the mixture. A good strain of Inter 

 mediate is still the best for f^l^^^^^^^" pf^^ 

 general use. For shallow :soils Early i^em 



and Favourite are splendid. 



PEAS.-From this date onwards the in ore 

 tender marrowfat varieties can be ^^""/''^ 

 safety in the open. Trenches or ground pre 

 viously trenched and well 

 necessarv to procure good crops olj^^^^ 

 flavoured peas"^ Draw drills deep -^^^^^^^ 

 form a shallow trench when the - ^ 



covered, as this depression is very beneticia 

 for mulching and watering. 



TOMATOES.-The hot summer of 1^^^ 

 should prompt many to again taKC p 

 side toniato culture. To secure the he^^^^ 



sme Tomaio cuuuit^. xv. . go as 



tuims an early Planting out 



seeds in boxes of fine soi , P^^^^V^^ " t off 

 house to germinate, pnck out, ^^^^ ^^jg^i^d 

 as required, until ^hey are estabiiH ^ 



in five-inch pots, then g^'^^^ually b^ide^ ^.^ 

 and plant out as suggested. }^^ri 

 i.s required when first P-^'^^;^^,^"\;.is place 

 base of ashes suits them well. ^,,p 

 small mounds of loamy soil, P-^"\' ' . five 

 dress as the roots show ; when toiir^ ^.^^ 

 trusses of flowers have set, p-jj^h oat 

 horse manure and a to ensure 



the growing point at the htt truss t^^^^ 



a good set, and suppress all sia p teT* 

 thly appear. Holmes' Supreme andj^f 

 Sunrise are excellent varieties. 

 WOOD, Swanmore Gardens. 



Geo. 



M KSSKNGKU, 



again. — J 

 Gardens. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 



CAULIFLOWERS. — Tliose sown during 

 th- autumn and duly wintered in cold framo. 

 hav ' hrrunic splendid plants, sturdy, com- 

 pact, and vi^rv hardy, and will now be in a 

 capital condition for planting out. Plant 



expanded a few days. It of e.x^y 



an4 readily propagated by seeas 

 K. 



or cutting"' 



