March 30, 1912. 



THE GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



263 



WORK FOR THE WEEK 



THE ORCHID HOUSES. 



THE COOL HOUSES.— There are plants 

 of odontoglossums, especially O. crispum and 

 its hybrids, which for various reasons were 

 not repotted in the autnmn. These are now 

 starting into growth, and any repotting they 

 may require should be carried out when the 

 young growtlois are two or three inches in 

 length, and are seen to be pushing forth 

 new roots. The sooner they are potted the 

 better, as they will then become established 

 in the new compost before the hot weather 

 arrives. Undoubtedly, in many places, the 

 abnormal heat of laet summer was very try- 

 ing to these orchids; but owing to the 

 favourable winter we have just parsed 

 through, they should by the present ime have 

 recuperated and be none the worse. Healthy 

 plants will need but little disturbance, 

 merely turning them out of their pots, cut- 

 ting away any leafless and exhausted pseudo- 

 bulbs, and picking out a^^ much of the old 

 compost as is practicable, in order that the 

 plant may be placed in about the same sized 

 pot as it formerly occupied, Tlie comport 

 m which I hnd these plants succeed is as 

 follows : Equal portions of peat, polypodium, 

 oemunda fibre, and sphagnum moss, with a 

 fair sprinkling of half-decayed oak leaves, 

 which should have been previously rubbed 

 through a half-inch sieve. 



POITENG. — One often hears many excuses 

 put forward for the failure of some one or 

 more plants, and in most cases the compost is 

 beamed; but I am firmly convinced that the 

 cause does not lay there at all, but is gene- 

 rally improper watering. All repotted 

 plants ehould be placed together in a house, 

 and be given extra shade. The newly- 

 potted plants must be watered with care, 

 and only sufficient must be given them to 

 keep the moss alove until the roots are 

 seen to be pushing through the new mate- 

 rial. In gardens where only a few orchids 

 are grown, to repot a plant is to end its 

 days, and in most cases the end is attri- 

 butable to excess of water, the old roots 

 being decayed ae a result. Those who grow 

 odontoglossums indifferently will probably 

 have noticed from time to time that the foli- 

 age has a decided tendency to become more 

 or less marked, or spotted, and that the 

 tips of the leaves decay, and have to be 

 trimmed. Tha^e are sure signs that the exist- 

 ing conditions are too wet or too cold, pro- 

 bably both. This state of affairs is fre- 

 c^uently brought about during winter when, 

 instead of having slight warmth in the pipes 

 with a little air on, the house is insufficiently 

 Ventilated, in order to keep the thermometer 



to the desired figure without turning on the 

 heat. ^ 



PROPAGATION.— The back pseudo-bulbs of 

 any varieties it may be desirable to increase 

 the stock of, may be put into quite small 

 pots, and treated as newly imported plants, 

 and in most cases these will make new 

 growth. Odontoglossum seedlings may also 

 ^ potted as they require it. Odontoglossum 

 ^ssi O. Cervantesi, O. Oerstedi, as they go 

 out of flower, should be kept only moderatelv 

 nioist at the roots, and be allowed to rest as 

 long as possible. 



SOFT - ROOTING 



jnust not be potted too firmly; pot 

 [igntly than otherwise, and avoid c: 



ODONTOGLOSSUMS 



rather 



„ - ^ ^^xi^ t*yyjLKx crushing 



'ue roots at any time. Keep a sharp search 

 lor lu&ect pests, especiallv yellow thrip. At 



Irl ""'^"^ fumigate at once with 



one ot the approved preparations that are on 



^^^S"" ^^"s^ be diligently 



Tl^5^^^^?'' destroyed.— J. T. Barker, 



ihe M est Hill Gardens. 



STOVE PLANTS. 



E^;Vr?n^^^^^^--0^^ P^^^^s of the species 

 tiinf r ^^V™ f^lgens (Jacquiniseflora) 



lat have been resting should now lie placed 



r^^f, """"'pter atmosphere and higher tem- 



Kmil ^^'"^ production of cuttings. As- 



^f^f^ ^^'^y ^^^^^ down to within 



loot of their base immediately after flower- 

 no lurther shortening will be neces- 



sary; but if a greater length of stem was re- 

 tained they may now be cut down to about 

 tliat level, taking the precaution to apply 

 styptic to the cut to prevent bleeding. Ihe 

 removed portions of stem make good mate- 

 rial for cuttings when the stock is short ; 

 cut into lengths of a few inches, with a 

 plump eye at the apex, and a straight cut 

 immediately below a joint at the bottom, and 

 insert in peaty soil with plenty of sharp 

 sand added. The best cuttings will, of 

 course, be produced from the ripened stems 

 of the old plants later on, when growth has 

 re c o in m en c e d . M ain ta i n a t emp e r a t u re of 

 70 degrees, rising to 80 degrees with sun- 

 heat. Very little water will be required be- 

 yond using the syringe frequently. Aim at 

 producing short-jointed cuttings by keeping 

 the stock near the roof-glass, and admitting 

 air at the apex of the structure during bright 

 weather. Take the cuttings with a slight 

 heel when two or three inches long, and in- 

 sert at once in sandy soil, and plunge in the 

 propagating frame. 



IXORAS. — Although these handsome plants 

 are not so frequently met with as formerly, 

 they are well worth a place where r lom can 

 be given them. Repot any requiring ir, 

 using a compost of three parts fibrous peat, 

 one of flaky leaf-soil, and sufficient sharp sand 

 and nodules of charcoal to keep the soil 

 open. As is pretty well known, ixoras delight 

 in plenty of heat ; indeed, it is hardly pos- 

 sible to accord them a too high temijerature 

 provided it is accompanied with ample humid- 

 ity and a slight shade during the hottest 

 part of the day during the season of active 

 growth. Large specimens should have the 

 long, straggling shoots shortened before new 

 growth commences, and the cuttings may be 

 inserted in sandy soil and placed in th? pro- 

 pagating frame if young plants are wanted. 

 Unfortunately, Ixoras are liable to attacks 

 of mealy-bug and scale, and unless constant 

 attention is devoted to keeping these pest© 

 down good results will not be obtained. 



COLEUS. — ^The tops may be taken from 

 the plants kept over the winter for stock, 

 and inserted in any light soil where they 

 will quickly emit roots at this season. Thoi-e 

 when well grown and highly coloured are 

 very useful for house decoration during sum- 

 mer. In my. opinion the most effective form 

 of training is the pyramidal. To be success- 

 ful in coleus culture, golden rules to observe 

 are light rich soil, plenty of light, and no 

 check to growth at any time. — H. T. 

 Martin, Warren Wood Gardens. 



FRUITS UNDER CLASS. 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES. — The 

 young growths on permanently planted trees 

 will require to be carefully tied in when 

 about four to six inches long. Care should 

 be taken to select shoots which start from 

 the base of the fruiting wood, and these 

 should be tied in, to ensure a good quantity 

 of fruiting wood for next season ; no hard- 

 and-fast rule can be laid down with regard 

 to the number of young growths it is neces- 

 sary to maintain, but sufficient care should 

 be exercised, so that the number does not act 

 to the detriment of the full development o^ 

 medium-sized, well-ripened wood for next 

 season. Every effort should be made to form 

 an evenly-balanced tree, furnished with fruit- 

 ing branches, equally distributed from the 

 centre to the utmost limits. Gradually thin 

 the fruits down to the required number, giv- 

 ing preference to those that take the lead 

 in swelling, and are well placed. The borders 

 will require copious supplies of clean tepid 

 Avater, with occasional applications of diluted 

 farmyard manure and some approved chemi- 

 cal fertiliser; damp down the paths and walls 

 several times a day to maintain a moist at- 

 mosphere, frequently syringing the trees to 

 keep the foliage clean. Admit air early in 

 the morning— before there is any perceptible 

 in the house temperature— which should 



be gradually incroase^l as required; maintain 

 a dav temperature ot 70 to 75 degrees with 

 sun iieat, allowing a night temperature of 

 from 60 to 65 degrees. Damp down the paths 

 and walls late in the afternoon with a weak 

 solution of cow-manure, as tliis will not only 

 niateriallv assist tlie full development of 

 strong, healthy foliage, but will also help to 



ward off the attacks of red spider. If red 

 si:)ider appears, the affected parts should be 

 immediately dusted with flowers of sulphur. 



CUCUlMBERS.— Constant attention will 

 be required to regulate and pinch the 

 laterals at two leaves; the plants are mak- 

 ing rapid growth with the advent of the 

 lengthening days and increased sunshine. 

 The shoots must be sufficiently thinned to 

 allow plenty oi room for the full develop- 

 ment of the foliage. Cut all fruits when 

 ready so as not to overtax the plants; give 

 top dressings as required, using light rich 

 soil, and water frequently with some farm- 

 yard liquid or artiiicial stimulants. Syringe 

 the plants at least once a day, and damp 

 down occasionallv to maintain a moist humid 

 atmosphere; admit air when possible, with 

 a day temperature of 70 to 75 degrees, allow- 

 ing a rise of 10 degrees with sun heat. 



TOMATOES.— The lower bunches of fruits 

 have set well, and are swelling away freely. 

 Carefully attend to watering. It is not a 

 wise plan to commence giving manurial as- 

 sistance until more bunches of fruits have 

 set, or otherwise there will be a development 

 of too much foliage and soft sappy growths; 

 remove all side growths as they api>ear. 

 Carefully tie and train the plants to one 

 stem, and admit air when ]K>ssible, but in 

 such a manner as not to cause any cold 

 draughts. A day temperature oi" (>0 to 63 

 degrees will be sufficient, with a night tem- 

 perature of 58 to 60 degrees. Should white 

 fly be troublesome, vaj^orise the plants on 

 alternate nights for a week. — Denry E. 

 Farmer, Cardiff* Castle Gardens. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



BORDER CARNATIONS. — Carnations 

 wintered in cold frames can now be planted 

 out in their flowering quarters. If the eoil 

 is heavy and retentive, it should be given a 

 good dressing of Avood ashes, which may be 

 lightly forked into the surface. Carnations 

 are sometimes planted in groups in the her- 

 baceous borders, but they look especially well 

 in narrow borders of one variety. When 

 numbers are grown they should be planted 

 in breadths with an alley l)etween every four 

 rows. Allow 15 inches between the plants 

 each way. Plant firmly, and give a good 

 watering; they will then need little subse- 

 quent treatment until they are staked, ex- 

 cept having the surface soil etirred occa- 

 sionally with the Dutch hoe, 



SWEET PEAS.— Those that were raised 

 in pots under glass are large enough to be 

 planted out at the firt^t favourable oppor- 

 tunity, such as on a mild showery day. One 

 ix)t will be quite sitfficient to each clump. 

 Place a few twiggy sticks around them at 

 the time of plajiting, for these will to some 

 extent afford protection as well as support. 

 Should- there be a ^pell of very cold winds, 

 such as we son^etiraeti experience in April, 

 it will be neces^ry to protect with small 

 spruce branches. A light spiinkling of soot 

 round the plants will be an advantage. Tlie 

 present is a good time to r^ow sweet j>eas in 

 the open ground, provided th<' soil is fairly 

 dry. and can be broken down finely. A tepace 

 of two inches between the seeds is neces«sary 

 to obtain sturdy plants 



GENERAL WORK.— Attend to ]x>tting 

 and pricking out the various subjects re- 

 quired for bedding purposes, and keep them 

 near the glass to promote i^tindy gr<nvth. 

 Perennial lobelia.s that have l)tM"n wiiit.-red 

 in )K)xes are making new growth, and should 

 be put separately into 48's, in wliicli they 

 will make good plants. Harden oft jKMitste- 

 mons ready to plant out next month. Violas 

 that were rooted from cuttings in tlie autumn 

 mar now be ])lanted out where they are to 

 flower. They are frequently used with good 

 effect as a groui! Iwork for rose beds, and 

 planted beneath Japane>o maples. If not 

 already done, gra^s verges should be trimmed 

 with the edging iron where iieees-ary, and 

 the lawns be' kept well rolled. i\> \h\> greatlv 

 facilitates the use of the lawn mower, which 

 must now be brougJit into play everv week. 

 Ivy growing on walls needs to l>e trininied. 

 and can be cut back fairly hard, as it will 

 soon become (|uite green again. — .1- Gardner, 

 Batsford Park Gardens. 



