r 



286 



THE GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



April 6, 1912 



watered. The resting season of mo^t of 

 these species is now about over, but at no 

 time are they capable of withstanding such 

 a low temperature as the deciduous dendro- 

 biums. After they have completed their 

 growths, they enjoy a long, dry rest, but 

 must on no account be allowed to shrivel, 

 and must be given just sufficient water to 

 keep them plump and healthy. The whole 

 of this section inhabit some of the hottest 

 portions of the earth, and when in full 

 growth they delight in an abundance of heat 

 and light, and will succeed in a plant stove 

 or a similarly-heated hou^e, where they can 

 be protected from the direct rays of the sun 

 during the hottest part of the day. When 

 the pans are full of roots these dendrobiums 

 delight in copious supplies of moisture, both 

 at the roots and in the atmosphere. During 

 hot weather they should be syringed or 

 spray^ed at least two or three times a day. 



COMPOST. — Dendrobiums, to my mind, 

 are fastidious as regards compost, and what- 

 ever material is used it should be thoroughly 

 prepared and have all the earthy particles 

 removed. Th*> fibr*^ used should be of the 



and it should not have been cut for any 

 length of time, so as to have lost its life. 

 The compost should resemble, as near as pos- 

 sible, the live material in which the roots of 

 these orchids revel in their native habitats. 

 A suitable compovst is made up of equal por- 

 tions of peat, polypodium and osmunda 

 fibre, and sphagnum moss, all thoroughly 

 mixed together. 



POTTING.— When potting plantn that are 

 grown in a high temperature it is essential 

 that the compost be warmed to about the 

 same temperature as the house in which the 

 plants are cultivated. Dendrobiums should 

 be potted moderately firm, and if the com- 

 post is prepared as advised there will be 

 no danger of getting it too hard and solid. 

 After repotting they should be kept rather 

 dry, giving sufficient water only to prevent 

 shrivelling and to slightly asriint the new 

 growths; they will then proceed steadily, but 

 surely, and but few, if any, will be lost 

 through damping off. Every encouragement 

 should be given the plants to enable them to 

 become established in the new compost. — 

 J. T_ IUrker- ^rhe West Hill Gardens. 



CONSERVATORY AND 



HOUSE. 



CREEN- 



TUBEROUS-EOOTED BEGONIAS that 

 have been stored and kept dry during the 

 winter will by now have commenced to make 

 new growth. The tubers are be«t brought 

 on in batches, and the most forward tubers 

 should be selected and placed in boxes in a 

 light compost of loam, leaf-soil, and coarse 

 silver sand, just covering them. The boxes 

 may be put in a light house or frame, with 

 a temperature of 55 degrees, and if the 

 tubers are sprinkled with water through a 

 fine rose the growth will be rapid. When 

 the tubers have started, and the large 

 leaves developing, they should be put into 

 suitable sized pots, according to the size 

 of the plant. The pots must be clean, and 

 the compost should consist of two parts 

 fibrous loam, one part each of leaf-soil and 

 sand, and the pots be well drained. Bego- 

 nias are best shifted on gradually, and not 

 overpotted at any time. They like plenty 

 of water when growing, and a stimulant 

 when the pots are full of roots. A light 

 position is necessary, otherwise they become 

 drawn and spindly; and during their earlier 

 growth, when not shaded, care must be 

 taken in watering not to drop anv water on 

 the foliage, or the sun will scorch it. 



SHOW PELAEGONIXJMS will be grow- 

 ing freely, and will need constant attention. 

 Those requiring more root space should have 

 their final shift. Old plants of last year will 

 easily fill an eight-inch pot. When they are 

 rooting freelv in the new compost, the 

 shoots should '^be pinched over for the last 

 time. Keep them as near the glass as pos- 

 sible. Pelargoniums require light and air to 

 keep them healthy, and are benefited by 

 liquid manure when well rooted. 



ZONAL PELARGONIUMS.— These will 

 soon make a fine display. Plants that have 

 been flowering throughout the winter and 



have become leggy should have the tops 

 of the shoots taken off, and inserted in small 

 pots. They soon become shapely again. Cut- 

 tings rooted last autumn and growing freely 

 in 60*s, will be ready to shift into 32 s pre- 

 paratory to standing out on the aeh bed to 

 be grown on for the autumn display. Tlie 

 flower spikes must be removed, and growths 

 pinched frequently to encourage sturdy 



growth. 



SHADING. — Owing to the very unsettled 

 state of the weather, but little sunshine has 

 been recorded ; but the temperature has 

 been high, and the growth under glass 

 very rapid. Shading has not yet been re- 

 quired, but shading material should be in 

 readiness for use when wanted. Fix all roller 

 blinds in position, and where permanent 

 shading, such as lime, summer cloud, etc., 

 is used, have it ready to apply any day, A 

 good permanent shade is made by mixing 

 lib. of Paris green to two quarts of sour 

 milk, and is readily applied with a whitning 

 brush. — Lewis Smith, Shotesham Park 

 Gardens. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 



MAINCKOP POTATOES.— Weather per- 

 mitting, it will be time to prepare for plant- 

 ing maincrop potatoes. Providing the site 

 was treated as earlier advised, only surface 

 stirring will now be necessary before plant- 

 ing the sets, but I fear many plots mapped 

 out for potatoes on heavy lands have not 

 even been touched, owing to the continuous 

 rainfall experienced. Should this be the 

 case, the ground must be very finely forked 

 up and well broken, planting the sets as the 

 work proceeds. A quantity of well-decayed 

 manure, leaf-soil, and lime, with burnt gar- 

 den refuse, should have been prepared under 

 cover during wet weather, and this should 

 be spread along the bottom of the trench 

 when digging, immediately under each line 

 of potatoes, and within easy reach of the sets. 

 To place it in the proper position and dis- 

 tance, peg or stake the plot before com- 

 mencing to dig, at two feet apart, and thirty 

 inches for the stronger growing kinds. The 

 potatoes should be properly sprouted, with 

 two strong, sturdy shoots each ; plant four 

 to five inches deep, and eighteen inches 

 apart in the rows; cover very carefully to 

 avoid breaking the shoots. A little old leaf- 

 soil and any old cucumber bed soil that may 

 be available should be placed over the "eet^ 

 before adding the ordinary soil. ITiis doubles 

 the crop of potatoes. Excellent maincrop 

 varieties are Superlative, Windsor Castle, 

 Snowdrop, and Up-to-Date. 



WINTER GREENS, BROCCOLI, AND 

 CAULIFLOWERS.— The general sowing of 

 all these will now need to be made. Choose 

 an open position on ground that contains no 

 fresh manure. Well beat and tread the 

 surface, bringing it down to a nice firm and 

 fine tilth; over this strew a heavy dressing 

 of wood ashes and lime, and rake or fork it 

 in. Sow in beds, or in drills, ten inches 

 apart ; the latter are perhaps preferable, as 

 the Dutch hoe can then be readily brought 

 into play. Should the turnip fly be trouble- 

 some, spray with a paraffin emulsion, or 

 scatter equal parts of lime and sulphur over 

 the seedlings early in the morning, when 

 the leaves are damp with dew. Make a 

 further -sowing of the later varieties the 

 first week in May. It is usual to make a 

 sowing of leeks for use twelve months hence. 

 When sowing (ia completed well net the 

 whole bed as a protection against birds. 



PARSLEY.— The early sown batch, which 

 has been pricked off in boxes, ete., will need 

 planting out on well-enriched ground ; pro- 

 viding it is properly hardened ofP, plant at 

 one foot apart, place a ring of cinder ashes 

 around each plant to ward off slugs, and 

 give occasional dustings of lime and soot 

 alternately. Sow a good batch in the open. 



ASPARAGUS.— After the heavy rains the 

 beds should be carefully examined, slightly 

 pricking the surface up to loosen and warm 

 it, a^ on heavy land the beds will be very 

 firm and wet. When the beds have had a 

 good airing give a light drowsing of salt. 



bed, 

 clies 



scattering over this some spent mushroom be^ 

 manure or similar material. A quick-actine 

 artificial manure will also.be very beneticiai 

 Sow -seeds on a warm border in a light soil 

 for future beds. If tended with due care 

 good roots will be ready for new beds twelve 

 months hence. Plant four inches deep on 

 ridges. Three rows are uciual on a 

 and the plants should be eighteen i: 

 apart each way. — G. Ellwood. 



SEAKALE. — Tlie thongs treated as advised 

 earlier are in excellent condition for plant- 

 ing out. Plant in lines at eighteen incks 

 apart, and one foot from set to set; plant 

 fiiTOly, and place cinder ashes around the 

 sets to prevent trouble from slugs. If lime 

 is lacking in the soil, apply a dressing before 

 planting. Soot and salt are great helps to 

 seakale. — G. Ellwood, Swanmore Park 

 Gardens. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



DISBUDDING PEACHES AND NECTA- 

 EINES. — This is one of the most important 

 operations the hardy fruit grower has to 

 perform. The future well-being of the tree 

 is mainly dependent upon the manner in 

 Avhich the work is carried out, and it re- 

 quires a considerable amount of forethoug-ht 

 and discrimination on the part of the opera- 

 tor to select and retain those shoots whicl 

 will preserve the balanoe and symmetry of 

 the tree. This operation should be carried 

 out so that no perceptible check is given. 

 To .avoid this danger it must be done by 

 degrees, extending over a period of three 

 to four weeks. The tirst thinning may con- 

 sist of the removal of foreright and back- 

 right shoots — that is, ishoots standing^ at 

 right angles to the wall; also a slight thin- 

 ning of the remainder, taking care to pre- 

 serve the basal shoot. In about a week 

 later a further reduction may be made. At 

 the tinal thinning the basal and extension 

 shoots only should be left, unless circum- 

 stances determine otherwise. There may be 

 gaps to be filled, and where the previous sea- 

 son's growth has been allowed to extend for 

 this purpose, select a well-placed shoot abou 

 12 inches above the basal growth. In all 

 case-s have a shoot at the tip, which 

 be stopped later on should there -not be 

 space for training it in full length. By all 

 means avoid overcrowding of the growths. 



All dead leaves should 



A dusting of 



STRAWBEERIES. 



be removed from the plants. j i t 



equal parts of lime and soot round and aboui 

 the crowns will make it unpleasant tor 

 slugs, and strengthen the yotmg grow^w 

 and flower spikes. For old plantations t« 

 pointing in of some well-decayed manure 

 was advised in a previous calendar ; it 

 not too late to make up arrears in in» 

 matter. If artificial manures are usea, > 

 should be with caution, otherwise an over 

 luxuriance of foliage may be induced. ^ 

 surface soil of newly-planted beds sliow 

 be kept well stirred with the hoe, and a 

 weeds eradicated as far as possible prw 



material, w 



hich 



applying the mulching mutci i"., , 

 usually consists of long stable „,a 

 from all the finer and shorter l»rY°;'i down 

 applied direct from the stables. It laia u 

 in good time it will become sweetenea 



rain sometime before the fp^^'Se to 

 light soils an application is desirao 

 prevent evaporation of moisture^. 

 low-lying localities, where late 

 occur and ruin the early Wossom., ^J.^^ 

 should be afforded of protecting "Jf g^it- 

 flowers ; thin strips of tiffany are ^^l^^^ 

 able for the purpose, or a temporary 

 work of splines and short posts ^re j 

 carry some kind of protecting ^e- 

 which mav be readily put on antt oi 

 quired.-W. Messenger, Woolverstone 



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