862 



THE GARDii^NERS' MAGAZINE. 



November 9, 1912. 



WORK FOR THE 



WEEK 



THE ORCHID HOUSES. 



PLEIONES are among those orchids that 

 have to be especially attended to during 

 the present month. Most of these pretty 

 species are nativeti of India, and grow chiefly 

 on rocks in mountainouti regions, and are 

 commonly known as " Indian Crocuses." 

 Their flowering season extends from the end 

 of September to the middle of November, 

 and there is one species, P. humilis, which 

 produces its flowers in the spring. Such 

 well-known species as P. laginaria, P. Walli- 

 chiana, P. praecox, P. concolor, and P. 

 maculata, are now in bloom, and will make 

 a delightful show for a week ov two to come, 

 providing no water is allowed to settle on 

 them. On examination it will be observed 

 that the green shoots from which the flowers 

 have sprung are in reality new growths, and, 

 under proper treatment, will form bulbs! 

 These shoots, within a short time after 

 flowering, will produce numerous young 

 roots from their bases, and then is the 

 proper timte to repot. The young root<s 

 lengthen rapidly, and are easily broken 

 when handled, therefore the plants should 

 be repotted directly roots are formed. 



POTTING.— Pots or pans must be pro- 

 vided with plenty of clean crocks for drain- 

 age, as it is important the water should 

 pass through the compost quickly. Over 



the crocks place a thin layer of rough 

 sphagnum moss. 



COMPOST.— The potting compost may 

 consist of loam, peat, and Osimunda fibre in 

 equal parts^ with all the earthy particles 

 removed, and a quantity of sphagnum moss 

 equal to one of the fibre, with a fair 

 sprinkling of crushed crocks or coanso t^ilver 

 sand. The Osmunda fibre should be cut 

 up moderately fine, and pulled thoroughly 

 to pieces, as it mixes better with the other 

 materials treated in this manner, than when 

 used in a coarse, rough state. Before re- 

 potting, turn the plants carefully out of 

 their pots or pans, carefully pick out the 

 old potting material, and remove the decayed 

 and worthless bulbs. In fixing them in 

 their new receptacles it is not advisable to 

 break the clumps up more than is neces- 

 sary, but each bulb must have room to de- 

 velop, and they should be so arranged that 

 when in flower they cover the whole of the 

 surface with their lovely blooms. Pot the 

 plants with moderate firmness, and the 

 spaces between the pseudo-bulbs should be 

 filled in with the roughest of the compost, 

 which is easily accomplished by starting 

 from one side of the pot or pan, and work- 

 ing to the other. When repotting is finished 

 the plants may have a flight watering to 

 settle the compost around them, and they 

 should be placed in a moist position, where 

 they will receive all the light possible, in a 

 house having an intermediate temperature. 



CULTURE. — For a few weeks very little 

 water will be required, but as the new roots 

 enter the compost and the foliage begins to 

 extend, the supply must be gradually in- 

 creased; but when thoroughly established 

 and the pans are full of roots, weak liquid 

 manure may be given occasionallv with bene- 

 ficial results.— J. T. Barker, The West Hill 

 Gardens. 



* 



STOVE PLANTS. 



PALMS. — To m.aintain the warmth-loving 

 pain s in a healthy condition it is necessary 

 to keep the foliage scrupulously clean as 

 well as the structure in which they are 

 grown. A general overhauling of the palm 

 house should be carried out at least twice 

 a year, viz., in the spring and about this 

 time. Should circumstances not allow of 

 emptying the house while tlio gla^s and 

 wood-work is being thoroughly cleaned, then 

 the plants may be tied up loosely and placed 

 at one end of the house, afterwards moving 

 them back to the clean part for the comple 

 tion ot the work. The most troubl 



insect pests are red-spider and small scale. 

 The latter is very injurious, and when 

 allowed to become numerous is difficult to 

 eradicate. The best plan is to brush or 

 sponge the affected parts with a fairly strong 

 solution of one of the insecticides recom- 

 mended for the purpose, and leave this upon 

 them for a few days. The insects will then 

 be loos-ened and leasily spong^ed off with 

 warm, soapy water. Examine the drainage 

 of the receptacles in which the plants are 

 growing, and, if faulty, rectify it. Al- 

 though it is inadvisable to give any of the 

 plants a large shift at this season, yet, if 

 any are cramped for root-room, they should 

 receive a slight shift Others will be bene- 

 fitted by pricking over the surface and top- 

 dressing with loamy soil, to which is added 

 a little dried cow-manure and a sprinkling 

 of soot and bone-meal. When the work is 

 completed, give a he^^vy syringing with tepid 

 rain water. Watering palmg during the dull 

 season requires great care, for while some 

 species should not become at all dry, 

 others are very impatient of an excess of 

 water. The cultivator can, by close watch- 

 fulness, acquire experience as to the require, 

 ments of the various species in this respect, 

 and will act accordingly. 



POINSETTIA PULCHEERIMA. — The 

 brilliant scarlet bracts will now be showing, 

 and the plants should be so arranged that 

 they are seen to the best advantage. Care 

 must be taken that there is no drip from 

 the roof, or the bracts will be disfigured. 

 Keep the heads of the plants well up to the 

 light, and avoid overcrowdinor or the bottom 

 leaves will turn yellow and fall. Well- 

 grown plantn should be clothed with green 

 leafage to within a few inches of the sur- 

 face soil. Use water of the same tempera- 

 ture as that of the house, and apply it 

 in the morning. Continue to give periodica] 

 applications of weak manure until the bractcs 

 are nearly developed, for if this manurial 

 assistance be discontinued too soon, there 

 will ensue a check, consequently the heads 

 will not be so fine. A golden rule to bear 

 m mmd is to keep the roots active bv ludi 

 cious watering and feeding.— H. T. Martin 

 Warren Wood Gardens 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 



EARLY PERMANENT VINES.— Where it 

 IS necessary to obtain ripe grapes in April 

 the house should be closed not later than 

 the middle of this month; tie the rods down 

 so that the buds will break evenly the whole 

 length of the canes. At this season of the 

 year when vegetation is slow to respond 

 to artificial means, it is necessary Ic. com- 

 mence with a night temperature of 50 ro 55 

 degrees and a day temperature of from 55 

 to ^>8 degrees; lightly spray the rods ^ev^ral 

 tim^fi a day, and to assist in maintaining a 

 moist atmosphere in the house, keep the 

 evaporating trays filled with water. Care- 

 luUy examine the l>orders, and if water is 

 required, give the whole bulk of soil a good 

 soaking with clean water, heated to a tem- 

 perature of 85 degreers. Exercise care when 

 damping down, otherwise the soil will be 

 come sour. Admit air when possible to 

 sweeten the atmosphere of the house, but not 

 m such a manner as to cause cold drau^^hts 

 or any ^enous lowering of the temperature 

 W hen the young growths appear the niffht 

 temperature must be about 60 de^rree. with 

 a day temperature ranging from" 65 to 68 

 degrees Great care must be exercised 

 IV hen forcing vines m the winter months- 

 attend assiduously to every detail or failure 

 will be the result.. If there are outside W- 

 ders to the vineries that are to be forced 

 at this season of the year, they should be 

 covered a foot thick with oak or beech leav^ 

 finishing the surface off, with a few inches 

 of long stable litter to prevent the leav " 

 irom being blown abf)iit. 



EAKLV I'OT YTNi;s_Tn niany pardons 

 the prnrt,,-. ,,1 n.iug vines grown "in ^ot^ " 

 adopted lur supplym,^ the early eiop oj 

 grapes. Pres.uning th<^ vines were pnnK?l 

 back to their proper length Ia«t month ev 

 should be thoroughly washed with warm 



soapy water to which a little flowers of 

 sulphur has been added. Make sure that the 

 drainage is in perfect order ; this is very 

 essential, as large quantities of water will 

 be given as growth develops and the days 

 lengthen. Many ways and means are 

 adopted to provide the bottom heat^ which 

 is absolutely essential for the vines 'at this 

 season of the year. It can be provided by 

 the use of stable litter and leaves well 

 mixed together, and the pots plunged in this 

 material, which must be renewed occasion- 

 ally to maintain a gentle heat. The method 

 we adopt here is to remove the soil fro 

 the melon or cucumber beds in a span or 

 lean-to house, which is provided with hot- 

 water pipes to give bottom heat; the stable 

 litter and leaves are placed in these cham- 

 bers, and made very firm by treading. The 

 pots are plunged into this material, and the 

 hot water-pipes are not made use of until 

 the heat from the fermenting material is 

 exhausted. Where a house of this descrip- 

 tion is not available, the pot vines can be 

 plunged in 20in. pots, and placed upon 

 the hot water-pipes in the house; we adopted 

 this plan some few years ago, and the results 

 were all that could, be desired. When the 

 pots are placed into position the canes should 

 be tied down to ensure an even "break." — 

 Henry R. Farmer, Cardiff Castle Gardens. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



ANTING 



— With the advent of 



November it is lime to commence this work, 

 and where the ground is not already pre- 

 pared no time should be lost in making it 

 ready. Roses prefer a deep rich loam, but 

 when the natural soil is not of such a suit- 

 able nature, it is necessary to suitably enrich 

 it with well-rotted farmyard manure, and, in 

 the case of light, open soils, the addition of 

 some good heavy loam, even approaching 

 clay in consistency, will be an advantage. 

 Deep cultivation is preferable to ordinary 

 digging, as it must be remembered the plants 

 are to occupy the ground for some time, and 

 a little extra care in preparations will be 

 amply repaid. Roses usually succeed best 

 where the subsoil is well drained; in low- 

 lying situations it is frequently necessary to 

 provide artifieial drainage by placing broken 

 bricks or some similar material in the 

 bottom of the trench two feet deep 

 as cultivation proceeds. It is, of course, 

 essential to have the ground in a moderately 

 dry condition at the time of planting. Make 

 the holes wide enough to spread out the roots 

 fully, and if the soil is at all lumpy, it is an 

 advantage to have some fine compast at 

 hand to place immediately over the roots. 

 Make the soil firm about the plants as the 

 work proceeds, and, after planting, apply 

 a top-dressing of short half-rotted manure. 



—In many districts it is 

 necessary to protect tea roses and hybrid 

 teas during the winter. Nothing is more 

 suitable for the purpose than dry bracken, 

 which should be neatly twisted around the 

 plants at the present time. When it is ne- 

 cessary to gi\^ shelter to tender shrubs, a 

 few spruce branches placed around them will 

 usually be sufficient. Heavy coverings 

 are not recommended, as they "are liable to 

 make the plants rather tender, in which case 

 they suifer upon the removal of the protect- 

 ing material in the spring. Gunneras should 

 be well protected with leaves or long stable 

 litter, the latter for preference. Finely- 

 sifted coal ashes placed over herbaceous 

 plants is the best form of protection for 

 those that need it- 



GENERAL WORK.— Border chrysanthe- 

 mums must be taken up, placed in boxes, and 

 kept in cold frames for the winter. See 

 that each variety labelled correctly. Sal- 

 via patens should be treated in the same 

 way. Take up gladioli and montbretia 

 corms. and store them in a frost-proof shed. 

 It IS quite necessary to take up the latter, 

 as when exposed to excessive wet and cold 

 they frequently jx^risli. (iivt» air to violetfi 

 and bedding plants in framccs on favourable 

 occasmnti, and protect them from frost at 

 mght by covering them with mats or straw. 

 J, Gahdner, Batsford Park (hardens. 



PROTECTION. 



