October, 1891. 



OUR COLUMNS. 



35 



of sea trout, and most of them a good supply of brown trout. Loch Strom-mhor, the 

 nearest to the hotel, contains a greater variety of fish than any I ever came across. We 

 caught in it sea and brown trout, cod, and lythe. Locli-na-duin is one of my favourites, 

 because the trout run large. AVe got 20 there weighing as many pounds. The name is 

 given to it by a " duin," or refuge, built on one of its islands. These " duins " occur on 

 many lochs, and are supposed to be relics of Druidical times. There is also one large one 

 on land — a huge heap of stones piled up over one or two rough chambers, with an 

 erection upon the top, the object of which is doubtful. Loch Huner is full of brown 

 trout, three or four to the lb. It is a common thing to bring home 50 or 60 trout from 

 it, but as we preferred large fish and fewer of them, we did not try it. Perhaps our best 

 day was at Loch Oban-na-feoch, from which we brought home a dozen sea trout weighing 

 15 to 161bs., the largest 3-Mbs., but it was a dreadful day and never once ceased raining. 

 There are many other lochs too numerous to mention, among which are Crignaval, 

 Gerrain, Skeltair, Na-Chiste, Verigavat, Oulisary, Obisary, and Horisary. On any of these 

 in favourable weather a good day's sport may be obtained. The island, in fact, consists 

 almost more of water than of land, as a glance at the map will show, and this constitutes 

 its most interesting physical feature. Another peculiarity is the immense number of 

 small islands in the lochs. One of them — Skattavah — is said to have 365 of them, one 

 for every day in the year ! 



It is necessary on almost all occasions to have the attendance of a ghilly. We were 

 fortunate in ours, who was a most intelligent man, and told us a good deal about the state 

 of things on the islands, and many amusing stories into the bargain. He gave us one 

 account of the unnatural voracity of the hoodie crow. He was out fishing one day with- 

 a gentleman, and seeing three young hoodies on the bank — hoodies are always got rid of 

 when possible — they caught them in the landing net, and wringing their necks, threw 

 them on the rocks. On their return they found the parent birds fighting over the carcases 

 of their young in their eagerness to eat them ! 



Funerals are very important events in these islands when they take place. The 

 mourners have often to travel a long distance, and at stated intervals make a stop of half 

 an hour to indulge in cake, biscuits, and whisky. Our ghilly told us of one occasion on 

 which a man left £10 in his will to be consumed in whisky at his funeral, and declared 

 that during the procession for a distance of 17 miles, no less than five free fights occurred. 



We were told that the Crofters w^ere quite contented — and our informant was 

 himself a Crofter — and that all rents were now fully paid up. The general prosperity and 

 morality is testified by the fact that there is at present no poor rate, and that there have 

 been only three criminals sent to prison in the last two years. 



Before concluding I may observe that the sport on the island is very varied. There is 

 fair grouse shooting, and some few stags are killed annually. The rough shooting of 

 ducks, snipe, and sea birds is very good, and the seal shooting in the Sound of Harris 

 should not be overlooked. The sea fishing, too, is better than in most places, and a large 

 number of lobsters are sent to the London and other markets. 



Altogether we had a very pleasant fortnight, and were sorry when the time came to 

 embark on our return journey. This time we went first across to Dunvegan in Skye, and 

 steaming by the lovely coast of that island, and calling at Rum, Canna, and Muck, we 

 reached Oban in safety, ready, on the strength of our own experiences, to recommend 

 others to follow in our steps. 



