April 28, 1898.] 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



899 



BASS FISHING. 



THE following instructions are written entirely in the 

 interests of the novice; the writer is an amateur red- 

 maker and fly-tyer, and a good part of the information 

 given is from his own experience. For general use a 

 heavy three-piece lancewood or bethahara fly-rod is the 

 best. It should weigh at least 10oz., and if a trifle heavier 

 so much the better, lO£ft. is about the right length, and 

 from $6 to $10 about the right price. For bait and fly 

 fishing you will want three tips — the fly tip, about 30in. 

 in length, the next about I4in., the short tip, 6 or 8in . 

 Long, will give you a very useful rod for trolling and also 

 for fighting a heavy fish on dangerous ground. This style 

 of rod will give you all the advantages of a combination 

 bait and fly-rod, without the trouble of carrying extra 

 material around with you. You will gain nothing by 

 using a stiffer rod, and lose much. Eernember it is the 

 pliancy of the rod that tires the fish. A hollow butt is 

 very useful for holding spare tips. Pay from $2 to $5 for 

 a reel with a sliding click capable of holding 50yds. of 

 hard-braided linen line of the smallest size, or No. 5 silk 

 fly line. Use spring-steel hooks, No. 1 to 8 Sproat or 

 O'Shaughnessy will give you an idea of the right size, 

 and see that they are knobbed, ringed or flatted. A fold- 

 ing landing net with a screw socket is very handy; you 

 can fit a handle while in the woods and throw it away on 

 leaving camp. A short handle is the best for general use, 

 These three and a few brass box swivels, about fin. long, 

 for all practical purposes complete the outfit; you can 

 add to the above a folding canvas creel, a few spoons, 

 imitation insects, etc. 



Always fasten your bait books with half hitches; pass 

 the gut or line over the shank, back of projection, and 

 bring the end around in front of the first strand, pull 

 tight and hold it down with your finger; place another one 

 in the rear of the first, settle it into place by working it 

 sideways; six or seven a.re enough. G-ut should be soaked 

 in warm water at least twenty minutes, to insure secure 

 knots. Ii you are in haste, soak it in the stream a few 

 minutes—this will answer temporarily. Cut the knot and 

 tie it in the proper manner on your return. Here is a 

 good safe knot for gut, a la Thad Norris: Place the two 

 ends together, painting in opposite directions, and pass 

 the long and the short end over and through twice, draw 

 it even and tight, cut close. For a loop throw it in that 

 form and pass the loop end over and through twice, treat 

 the loop for the reel line in the same manner, omitting 

 one turn and finishing off with three half hitches. 



To splice a rod, make a neat bevel, then lap the ends 

 together so that they will work over and under; about 

 liin. for the tip and lin. more for the other joints is long 

 enough. Now, put in four half hitches, close up to lower 

 part of splice, always finishing on the inside; carry the 

 waxed thread or cord forward to the other piece and 

 fasten in the same manner, so that when the two parts 

 are laid together there will be a taut connecting piece to 

 prevent the ends from working out; this is a fixture. 

 Now make one turn and hold it down with your finger; 

 now another, close up, and continue until you have 

 reached the termination of all: fasten with five half 

 hitches. To unfasten, pull out each half hitch with 

 your fingernail. A spare tip can be used in this manner; 

 in that case there would be no necessity of boring out the 

 butt piece beyond the termination of the hand hold. For 

 a permanent splice rub shoemaker's wax on the beveled 

 parts. This is the way to mend an ordinary break in 

 your rod between the ferrules. To splice a line, separate 

 the strands of both ends about one inch, rub with shoe- 

 maker's wax and lay together; wrap with waxed thread, 

 as in directions given above, only finish close up and in- 

 side the other half hitches. If your rod breaks close to 

 the upper ferrule, burn the wood out if you are in haste, 

 otherwise cut it or bore it out. Unless it is overdone 

 one or two buivings will not do much injury to a ferrule. 

 A good brass ferrule costs but a trifle. Hold it with a 

 forked or split stick and gradually bring it near the fire. 

 When the wood catches fire hold the ferruLe downward. 

 To make a tenon or dowel, about lin. from the end of the 

 rod, make a cut around the joint with your knife, work- 

 ing it like a saw; now split up the wood around the cut 

 from below, shape the projecting wood so that it will fit 

 in the upper part of the tenon hole; now shave the wood 

 away above the cut to receive the ferrule, rub the wood 

 with wax and fit it so it can be forced by the hand nearly 

 to the mark, and send it to its place by a few blows on a 

 piece of wood shifted around the edge. This is only tem- 

 porary ; on your return, slightly warm the ferrule and 

 take it off. Now make a neat fit of the metal tenon and 

 ferrule; finish by filing the wood across the grain. While 

 turning the joint from you rather briskly, use rubber 

 cement instead of wax. A break close to the lower fer- 

 rule is repaired in the following manner: Smooth the 

 wood off even; to brace the rim of the hole wrap tightly 

 some fine cord around the upper part of the joint and 

 fasten about iin. below; always keep it on while fit- 

 ting the tenon. Your knife should have at least three 

 blades, about i, & and -fern- wide, to work out different 

 sizes of tenon notes. Now place the point of your knife 

 in the center: use moderate force while working the 

 point with a circular movement, while turning the joint 

 slowly toward you. 



After making considerable progress place the back of 

 the blade against the opposite rim, to keep the edge of 

 the blade away from the upper part as much as possible, 

 and work out the lower part of the hole, with the edge of 

 the blade near the point: finish the upper part. Toward 

 the last work a piece of blunt wire around the inside of 

 the hole to smooth it out. After trying the tenon, if you 

 find the wood raised on the inside, scrape it down: file 

 the rim occasionally with your file blade. Always place 

 a piece of wood in the opening to prevent the blade clos- 

 ing; i of an inch for the butt tenon and for the upper 

 joint is a deep enough hole to receive the tenon; this 

 will he found to be a good compromise between the tenon 

 and no tenon theory. I have tested this matter thor- 

 oughly by using less in actual service, ? V of an inch for 

 the upper joint and for the other is about the right 

 width of the rim. It is a fit if it supports the upper joint. 

 Provided it is. down on the mark, leave a small portion 

 of the tenon outside the hole. Make haste slowly, and be 

 sure your measurements are right; a small stick is good 

 enough for measuring. A portion of the metal tenon can 

 be dispensed with, unless you intend having the joint 

 repaired at the shop on you return. Practice all this on 

 a piece of hard wood before touching your rod. 



Now replace the ferrule, and if you have the time make 

 permanent fit. I will warrant a good lasting job if the 



above directions are closely followed. Fasten a ring top 

 in the same'manner as a ferrule. Wrap the keepers for 

 the rings with waxed Jinen or silk thread. You are but 

 half an angler if you do not know how to repair your 

 tackle. To rig up properly, fasten the reel and shove the 

 click aside until wanted, then join the tip and second 

 joint and bring your hands close together; at the ferrules 

 make a half turn and shove hard together. Always give 

 a half turn in unfastening; if the ferrules stick fast, 

 slightly warm them. Now connect with the butt and 

 pull the line through the rings, loop on the leader and 

 fasten the hook in the bar of the reel. You are now 

 ready to begin operations, provided you have a fair 

 supply of bait. 



Trolling, lasting, and still-fishing are the different 

 methods of using the minnows. The live minnow is 

 used in still-fishing, either hooked through the upper 

 and lower lips or the back. I much prefer passing the 

 hook a trifle below the skin and bringing the point out 

 near the back fin, and with this hold the bass will soon 

 work up to the hook, no matter which end of the hook 

 he commences operations on. After drawing off a suf- 

 ficient quantity of line, grasp the minnow and toss it 

 lightly in the water; use the line as little as possible in 

 lifting the minnow. If bushes and weeds are in front of 

 you it will be necessary to throw it. The minnow some- 

 times persists in keeping on the surface; in shallow water 

 it does not matter; in deep water try split shot or any 

 weight not too conspicuous, placed about 2ft, from the 

 bait. The bass in taking the minnow almost invariably 

 makes a long or a short run ; the long run is when the 

 bass shows no disposition to stop; point the rod in his 

 direction, and let him have the line unchecked by any 

 click. If you think the reel is revolving too fast, press 

 the line lightly against the rod with your finger at the 

 end of ten or a dozen yards. Strike with moderate force 

 by raising the arms with an upward motion ; if you miss, 

 let your minnow drop back in the water, and the 

 chances are he will take it again. If the bass runs a few 

 yards only and then stops, be patient even if he jerks the 

 line; wait until he moves off steadily before striking. 

 Always regulate the pressure with your finger more or 

 less, whether you shove the click on or play the fish 

 without it. Keep the top of your rod up and your line 

 taut in playing him. If the pressure is too great ease it 

 by lowering the tip, and always do this when the fish 

 leaps out of the water. Never hurry a fish when there is 

 no occasion for it; be rather easy at* the start and apply 

 more pressure as he begins to tire; play him until he is 

 thoroughly used up. Now, sink the landing net a trifle, 

 bring him near it, and net him head first, or quietly use 

 your hand; never haul a good-sized fish ashore with your 

 line unless you want to risk losing him. Practice land- 

 ing fish by hand, as it is impossible to use a net in some 

 places. Strike if the bass does not make his second run 

 in two or three minutes unless the line gives warning 

 that he is still at the bait. 



On playing a good-sized fish, if dangerous obstructions 

 abound, tire him out as soon as possible by putting all the 

 pressure you dare on rod and line; to force him away 

 from an ugly place, shove the end of the butt - outward, 

 keeping a pretty stiff pressure with your finger on the 

 iine, unless you have a strong click. When it gets to be a 

 question of letting the fish have his way or breaking your 

 rod, choose the former method every time. Now, reel up 

 your line as you approach the place where he has fastened 

 you and feel down the line until you find him; put your 

 forefinger in his gill-cover and your thumb in his mouth 

 and lift him out; you will not always be so fortunate. 

 Kill your fish by striking the back of his head against 

 any hard substance. 



Sometimes, when other means fail, if possible, raise the 

 obstruction with a stout stick ; you may save some of your 

 tackle if nothing else comes of it. 



Avoid fishing in places where it is impossible to bring 

 your fi3h near enough to reach him. Your bait-rod 

 should be at least 9ft. in length, to give you command of 

 your line in reaching over the tops of bushes and other 

 obstructions; for boa-tfishing and open places the short 

 rod is good enough. Turtles sometimes trouble the min- 

 now; in that case leave the place and return later. 

 Always rig up away from the stream; approach cau- 

 tiously, as large bass are sometimes seen near the surface. 

 If you see one swimming off alarmed, leave him alone 

 for the present, go to some other place and return later: 

 lack of caution is the great bar to success in shoal water 

 bass fishing. Keep well under cover if the water is from 

 3 to 5ft. in depth, unless the light is failing or there is a 

 strong ripple on: very shallow water is not likely to har- 

 bor large fish; from 4 to 15ft. is the best for most local- 

 ities. 



Casting the minnow from the rod requires special 

 tackle. The minnow is reeled up and cast from the tip 

 of the Tod: the multiplying reel gives line rapidly, 

 slightly controlled by the thumb, to prevent backlashing. 

 The angler must judge for himself whether it is worth 

 his while to acquire the art. I have never had any oc- 

 casion to practice it. Further information can be obtained 

 at the tackle shop. 



A method of my own, at least it is new to me, will 

 prove acceptable to most anglers, as a gut leader can be 

 used, whicn is not the case in the other method. Only 

 ordinary tackle is required. Take a fair-sized dead min- 

 now and pass the hook in at the mouth and out at the 

 gill; fasten it about half way between the back fin and 

 tail, so that the shank of the hook is in a line with the 

 back, the point uppermost. Draw off from the reel 

 enough line and grasp the rod with the thumb and fore- 

 finger; dispose of the line in coils on the end of your ex- 

 tended fingers, leaving about two yards over; now grasp 

 the minnow with your right hand and throw it; it will 

 come easy enough after "a little practice. Unless the 

 water is Bhallow, allow the minnow to sink a foot or 

 more below the surface, then draw it along with a jerky 

 movement; this will cause it to revolve in the water; 

 occasionally give it a few slight pulls, this will vary the 

 motion. It will keep its depth, as its curved shape 

 allows it to hold water. When the bass takes the min- 

 now allow him to run a few feet before striking. 



To prepare for another throw do not reel in, but reach 

 out and coil the line upon the fingers until it is all in 

 except the short length. If a bass seizes the minnow 

 during the operation, pay out the line through the fingers 

 on the right hand, putting on what pressure' is needed. 

 Straighten the minnow when it gets too pronounced a 

 curve. Casting the grasshopper is another effective 

 method, Hook the grasshopper through the lower part 



of the body, so that he heads up the hook, toss him in a 

 short distance and take extra precaution to keep out of 

 sight as long as he remains on the surface. Increase 

 your cast gradually by drawing off sufficient line from 

 the reel, the slack ' will be taken up in casting. Now, 

 start the bait from the water, slowly at first, then with 

 increasing momentum, send it to the rear; a short pause 

 before making the forward movement; aim a trifle above 

 the spot, so that your bait will drop quietly in the water. 

 In rough water it does not matter; draw the bait along 

 with a jerky motion. Allow the bass to run a few feet 

 before striking. 



Worms and crickets can be cast in the same manner, 

 Use a whole worm of moderate size; hook it so as to leave 

 the two ends free. It is necessary to make a side cast 

 when there are obstacles in your rear. Send the line 

 along the stream, and return it directly in front and 

 beyond. 



The above remarks will give the beginner a good idea 

 of fly- casting. Watching a good fly -caster will be of 

 great assistance. Artist, 

 [to be continued.] 



BOSTON ANGLERS. 



THE ice in the Maine trout lakes is hard and strong, up 

 to the present writing, though reports disagree as to 

 the thickness and the probabilities of its going out. 

 Taking all the reports together, it would scarcely seem 

 possible that it could clear from the Eangeleys before the 

 10th of May, while from Moosehead it will doubtless go a 

 day or two before it does from the former. I have pre- 

 pared a list of the dates of the departure of the ice from 

 the Eangeleys. for the past ten years, which is as follows: 

 In 1882, May 12; 1883, May 14; 1884, May 13; 1885, May 15; 

 1886, May 3; 1887, May 16; 1888, Mav 21; 1889, April 30: 

 1890, May 9; 1891, May 10. The above dates are from 

 scrap books, and correspond with the dates of the dis- 

 patches to the Boston Herald announcing the departure 

 of the ice from the above lakes. The ice has usually gone 

 out of Moosehead a day or two sooner, though not always. 

 Doubtless it will go several days sooner this year, since 

 it is a greater body of water, and is better filled, I under- 

 stand. In the Eangeleys there is very little water at 

 this time. A letter from J. A. French, who is again to 

 have charge of the camps at the Upper Dam this year, 

 says, under date of April 22, "The lakes are very low, 

 and unless we get lots of rain, will be all the spring. If 

 this is the case, I shall look for better fishing than you 

 have seen for years; for the trout will be where you can 

 find them." In this letter Mr. French has in view the 

 fact of the tremendous flowage that is a feature of the 

 Eangeleys— some 10ft. at Eangeley Lake, 13ft. at Moose- 

 lucmaguntic and 21ft. at Eichardson — and it has been a 

 theory that the trout are hard to find when the water is 

 high, which has been the case for many years at the time 

 of the spring fishing. 



Boston anglers are getting impatient, as they almost 

 always do, and later they wish that they had not. The 

 big trout have never been caught at first. It has always 

 taken days of warm weather to bring them to the bait. 

 Numerous parties are made up, several of which have al- 

 ready been named in the Forest and Stream, others will 

 follow. In the mean time such of these anglers as have 

 leisure and the means to do so are trying other waters. 

 Herbert Lawt^n, John Priest and H. Priest go to Lake 

 George, New York, in a few days. One at least of these 

 gentleman has visited the Maine lakes several times, 



J. L. Harberger, with Bucannan & Layal, the tobacco 

 people, went to Newfound Lake in New Hampshire, on 

 Friday, to try the landlocked salmon and trout. There are 

 reports of several fine landlocked salmon taken at that 

 lake this spring. Dr. George H. Fowler and Mr. C. N. 

 Drake of Bristol, the location of the lake, have landed 

 a handsome one, and they made a present of it to J. F. 

 Merrow, proprietor of the Eevere House, Boston, who has 

 a fine country estate bordering on the lake. This salmon 

 is said to have weighed 131bs. Mr. C. D. Sias and wife 

 also go to Grand Lake Stream this week. Mr. Sias is of 

 the celebrated coffee concern of Chase, Sanborn and Co. 

 W. H. Mills, of Portland, Me., also goes to Grand Lake 

 Stream this week. 



L. Dana Chapman, not unknown to the readers of the 

 Forrst and Stream, with his friend Mr. Larkin, of Mil- 

 waukee, were down to Bourne on a trouting trip last 

 week. George Tufts, of the Standard Clothing Co. , has 

 recently returned from some fine trouting sport at his 

 preserve in Connecticut. Mr. John Loring, EiisbaFlagg, 

 Augustus Flagg, of Little, Brown & Co., and Edward 

 Dexter go to a private stream on the Cape in a few days. 

 Mr. J. H, Bridge, of Augusta, Me., has recently returned 

 from his first tarpon fishing excursion in Florida. He 

 succeeded in landing two of the silver kings. Special, 



ANGLERS' ASSOCIATION OF ONONDAGA 



SYEACUSE, '-N. Y., April 21.— Editor Forest and 

 Stream : We have elected our officers for coming 

 year. You see we made scarcely any change. They all 

 are in it — for protection — and you will see great results. 

 Our Association fully appreciates the many favors they 

 have done us in the past. They are: President, E. W. 

 Jones; Vice-President, John N. Babcock; Secretary, 

 Walter S. MacGregor; Treasurer, Charles H. Mowry; 

 Executive Committee: M. J. French, Wm. Everson, Geo. 

 B. Wood, H. E. Bobbins, Amos Padgham. 



Secretary MacGregor has prepared the following 

 exhibit of work for the year; 



It has been thought desirable to inform the members of tho 

 Anglers' Association and the public generally, of the work done 

 by the Association during the past two years of its existence in 

 capturing nets and prosecutidg offenders: 

 Total Nets captured and destroyed by Agents of the Asso- 

 ciation in Onondaga Lake, Oneida Lake and Seneca River. 133 



Fish Spears captured. 17 



PROSECUTIONS. 



Actions brought in Supreme Court 11 



Judgments recovered after trial of issues 9 



Settled before trial 2 



Settled after trial 2 



Actions brought in Justice Court 22 



Judgments after trial 5 



Settled before trial. 17 



Settled after judgment 5 



There are no actions now pending. 



The Association points with pride to the above record of its 

 work, which is without parallel in the State of New York, and 

 confidently ask a continuance of your support. 



Waltee S. Mac&begor. 

 State Game Protector Hawn and the Association's 

 special protector are doing excellent work. 



Henry Loftie. 



