Aug. 2^, 1891;! 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



its own roads easy and by others hard, rery much hurt- 

 ing this part of the Adirondacks. 



To me another reason presented itself. The hotels in 

 the Adirondacks are no longer in the woodf. There are 

 no woods where there are railroads a year old. We have 

 stumps and dead trees in lieu of forest; hotels with elec- 

 tric lights and Chicago beef in lieu of hunters' camps and 

 venison; steamboats and railroads in lieu of skiffa and 

 huckboards; pickerel and percli instead of trout and 

 salmon trout; conventionalities in place of freedom from 

 outside contact and influences. The charm has departed. 

 To those of us who contrast from our own experience the 

 woods of thirty years ago and their resources with those 

 of to-day, this is plain; hut for those who are just begin- 

 ning, let them spend a day roaming around in the deep 

 sand at Paul Smith's, noting down the comforts and lux- 

 tiries of the city which are at their disposal, then jump 

 into a skilf and row up through Spitfire into the Upper 

 St. Regis, and see the differejice. The fortunate ones who 

 have camps there are really in the woods. As the season 

 is but six weeks long, the improvements are making poor 

 men of the landlords. 



The proprietor of the Grove Point very wisely utilizes 

 his winters, tbe last one in keeping a hotel in Florida; 

 and this winter he and many of his steady guests are in- 

 terested in a hunters' camp and family hotel which ho is 

 to keep on the sea coast of South Carolina, where there 

 will be no end of quail and bay bird shooting, and "all 

 tbe comforts of home." He intends, I believe, to trans- 

 port all of his Adirondack staff , and I with lots of his 

 guests have promised to come to him. Just when .and 

 where this Mecca is to be I have yet to learn. If he keeps 

 his promise to advertise in the Fokest and Stream I 

 ■will try to go to his pk- ce. 



On Monday evening, when the concert was over, all 

 of my newly made friends bade me good-bye, for I was 

 to start early. I had found that I could take a stage 

 from Schroon to Iron Mountain, then by the Iron Moun- 

 tain Railroad reach Crown Point at 11:15, but examin- 

 ation of the Delaware & Hudson Canal Company time 

 tables showed that this was about half an hour too late 

 to catch the train for Plattsburgh, and I was compelled 

 to hire a private conveyance for a 25-mile drive. The 

 livery man oifered to drive me over for $S, but Mr. Mac- 

 kenzie, my landlord, secured me a good horse and buggy 

 for half the money, and at 6 A. M., after an excellent 

 breakfast, I was olf. If anybody wants to buy a good- 

 looking horse that can ta^ke two men over a woods road 

 twenty-five miles in three hours and a half they had 

 better communicate svith Mr, Cornell, the shoemaker, of 

 Schroon, who starting (to be accurate) at 5:50 A. M. from 

 Grove Point, landed me at 9:ia at the Crown Point depot, 

 after a twenty-five miles drive in three hours and twenty- 

 eight minutes, with more go left in the horse than he ap- 

 peared to have had when we started, and not a hair 

 turned. In one respect it is not to be wondered at, the 

 morning was simply perfect, a good rain the night before 

 had hardened the roads and the drive was an episode, 

 taking in as it did some pretty water and landscapes, 

 Paradox Lake and Iron Mountain. But although I en- 

 joyed the drive, it nevertheless seemed strange with a 

 railroad not overworked running right to the Crown 

 Point depot, or near it, that it was not so arranged that 

 tourists could use it. Is this also a little squeeze to help 

 boom the late Rome & Watertown, now New York 

 Central'? 



At Plattsburgh I took the ChateaugayRoad, and I have 

 already described how my anticipations of pleasure were 

 thwarted. Of course there is more sentiment than sense 

 in my views, The people have got to have lumber and 

 iron and charcoal; and undoubtedly the material pros- 

 perity of the country is greatly increased by this road, tor 

 on it there are a number of apparently thriving, pros- 

 perous settlements started and lots of business is being 

 done, but what the settlers will do when the timber gives 

 out I cannot see. A bushel an acre would be a large crop 

 to expect from some of the land. 



Of course I enjoyed the little time I had at Paul 

 Smith's, principally though because I spent much of it 

 on the bosom of Upper St. Regis Lake. On Tuesday I took 

 the stage to Paul Smith station and reached Potsdam that 

 evening by 8 o'clock; from there to New York by Rome 

 & Watertown and New York Central. So I made my 

 woods trip— circumnavigated the Adirondacks and went 

 to the wedding, PiSECO. 



TWO WEEKS AT SPRUCE LAKE. 



OUR party numbered four, all imder twenty years of 

 age, namely, Shonk, Zack, Sfceen and the writer, 

 whom the boys had nicknanaed "Kansas Jake" on a 

 former trip, which name stuck by me (don't infer that 

 we are dime novel fiends) because I greatly resembled a 

 party who played that character in the "Bandit King" a 

 well known border drama. The name was afterward 

 modified to plain "Kansas." This was our fourth annual 

 camping trip.. 



For this trip we had been collecting duffle for months; 

 every day added some little trinket to our vast collection 

 until we had collected 3161bs. of luggage besides our 

 guns, rods, etc., which we expected to tote twelve miles 

 into the woods. We did not have the pleasure of read- 

 ing "Nessmuk's" "Woodcraft" until after we came home 

 from this trip. Had we read it before we would have 

 saved a great deal of fun at our expense. After weeks 

 of waiting Aug. 15 came at last, and on that day we 

 arrived at Abraham's hotel, at the head of Piseco Lake. 

 Aug. 16, we rose at 5:15 A. M. to find it raining hard. 

 This was a damper, for we were anxious to be on the 

 twelve-mile walk to our camping quarters. It stopped 

 raining at about 9 A. M. We had to walk about half a 

 mile from the hotel to meet Ceylon Clark, our guide. We 

 had divided our 3161bs, of dulfle as equally as possible. 

 This with our guns made quite a load. When Clark saw 

 our duflUe he gave us a. big laugh and said that we did 

 not need one-half of it. We immediately sorted out 

 what we would really need in the woods. He told us 

 that we could get a fellow who owned a pack horse who 

 would take the balance of our luggage in for $3. This 

 we gladly assented to, for we had enough of it at the 

 half-mile pole. Here we were introduced to a gentleman 

 from Franklinville, N. Y,, who had spent several vaca- 

 tions with our guide, and if we did not object, he would 

 like to go in the woods with us for a few days. We had 

 no objections, as he looked and proved to be a jolly good 

 fellow, although he was twenty years our senior. 

 We set out for Spruce at 11:30 A. M. The trip through 



the woods was a hard one, but we pressed on , knowing 

 that we would be repaid for our labor. Clark said that 

 we were taking a \ery moderate gait. I concluded that 

 if he callled our present rate of speed moderate, he could 

 count me out on anything faster at the quarter pole. 

 Every mile that we left behind vis we would thank Clark 

 that he had not let ua carry that duffle. Any one who 

 has followed an Adirondack trail knows how grateful we 

 felt toward him for relieving us of 79lbs. of luggage. At 

 3:45 P. M. the blue waters of Spruce Lake shone through 

 the trees, and in five minutes we were executing a war 

 dance around Clark's well-built log cabin, where we were 

 to make our headquarters. We next inspected the inte- 

 rior of the cabin, and were surprised to find that Clark 

 had a good wood cook stove and kitchen outfit in his 

 mountain retreat. He informed us that he had brought 

 the stove in the woods by piece meal on horseback. We 

 found sleeping accommodations for eight people, consist- 

 ing of four double berths, arranged two on each side of 

 the cabin. The bedding was composed of woolen blan- 

 kets, deer skins and balsam bonghs. In about one hour 

 after our arrival at the camp Clark called us to a very 

 tempting meal. 



Aug. 17.— It rained nearly all day, and our time was 

 spent in swapping stories, reading and playing eeven-up 

 around Clark's stove, for it was damp and cold. 



Aug. 18. — The morning dawned bright and clear, and 

 Clark, Steen and I went down the outlet of Spruce Lake 

 to try our luck at trout fishing. Our knowledge of trout 

 fishing was very Hmited, while Clark is an expert with 

 the fly-rod. Steen and I had a full line of flies, leaders, 

 etc., when we started out, but when we retm-ned we did 

 not have half of our fine collection left. The flies had 

 flown heavenward and lit on the boughs of the numer- 

 ous trees that infested the banks of the brook. Clark 

 and Steen were on the lead fishing down the stream, 

 while I must have been a quarter of a mile in the rear 

 when they began calling for me to come up to them. I 

 started up, but had not gone far when I slipped on a 

 large flat rock and fell head first in the water. 1 man- 

 aged to get out without ^. dry stitch on me. I heard the 

 boys calling me again, and made another start; had not 

 gone 50ft. when I repeated my previous performance, 

 this time breaking my rod near the butt. I picked my- 

 self u.p and sat down, and soliloquized as follows: And 

 this is the trout fishing that I have heard so much about. 

 Here I am, a poor, miserable wretch, soaking wet, with 

 no companion to share my misery. Hearing the boys 

 calling, I once more started down the center of the 

 stream, for the center of the stream was the easiest 

 place to walk, for on either bank the alders were so thick 

 that it was almost impassable. When I finally came up 

 to the party I presented a pitiable appearance. The only 

 consolation that I got was, "that I ought to have had my 

 bathing suit along." 



We took an inventorv and found that om* combined 

 catch amounted to eighty-six fine trout. Clark caught 

 the largest fish which weighed BJlbs. We took a trail for 

 camp; on our way we saw one of Clark's bear traps with 

 the decomposed remains of a black bear in it. Clark did 

 not go to the trap until the bear was badly decomposed, 

 therefore the hide was no good to him. Steen got one of 

 his clavv-s. We reached camp in about one hour. I was 

 surjirised to find that my clothes were nearly dry. Zack, 

 Shonk and Case (the gentlemen who came in with us for 

 a few days) returned from a fruitless trolling expedition. 



Aug. 19. — ^The day being Sunday we were not very 

 active. We took a sail on the lake, Steen saw some- 

 thing moving on shore, and when we got within about 25 

 rods he shot and killed it. It proved to be a large hedge 

 hog. We all went picking red raspberries and got three 

 quarts of that luscious fruit. At noon Mr. Case took his 

 departure for home; we were all very sorry to see him 

 go, for we foimd him a most agreeable gentlemen. 



Aug. 20.— Zack. Shonk and Clark went fishing for trout 

 on the Jessup's River. They returned about noon with 

 107 fine fish, Shonk taking the lead with a 2|-pounder. 

 While the trio were fishing, Steen and the writer were 

 trying our .44-ca]. rifles on the spry little red squirrel, 

 which animal is found, in great numbers here. Our rifles 

 were too large for these small creatures, if we had a .22 

 Winchester we could have killed scores of them. We saw 

 deer paths a foot wide, and signs as if the woods were 

 full of deer. 



After supper Clark told us to draw cuts to see who 

 should go with him and float for deer. Steen drew the 

 lucky stick, and at 9 P. M. he and Clark started out for 

 the upper end of the lake, where the deer came in to feed 

 on the lily pads. We waited in breathless suspense for 

 the report of a gun. At last, about 10 P. M., the welcome 

 sound came thundering across the lake. We were all 

 excitement, and were hoping and praying that Steen had 

 not got that terrible disease known to hunters as buck 

 fever. The minutes seemed as if they were hours. At 

 last we were relieved from our suspense, when Clark and 

 Steen arrived at the landing with a big buck. Cheer 

 after cheer rent the air as we crowded around Steen and 

 shook his hand nearly off. We then inaugurated a green 

 corn dance around the poor unfortunate buck. It was 

 after 2 A. M. when we concluded our festivities. 



Aug. 21. — We arose at 6 A. M. with our mouths all 

 ready for one of those juicy venison steaks that we had 

 read so much about. We" found that Clark could cook 

 venison as well as he could trout. We now had fish and 

 venison on hand in great abundance, but the groceries 

 were running low from the constant inroads made by the 

 voracious gang. This necessitated Clark's going to 

 Piseco for a new supply. He left us after cooking us a 

 good dinner, to cook for ourselves. When supper time 

 came Steen volunteered to act as chef de cuisine. He 

 prepared us a supper equal to the best: but as a breakfast 

 cook he was a dismal f afiure. Hie coffee was a villainous 

 concoction, black as ink, and his potatoes would have 

 tried the patience of Job. 



Aug. 23— We arose to find it raining, and it continued 

 to drizzle nearly all day. Clark arrived in camp at noon 

 with a lai'ge supply of groceries. In the afternoon Shonk, 

 Clark and I went down the outlet of Spruce Lake for 

 brook trout, in the rain. We i-eturned witii 75 fine 

 trout, Clark taking the largest fish which weighed Iflbs. 

 Shonk duplicated my former performance by falfing in 

 the water and getting very wet. 



Aug. 23. — Zack and I went trolling for lake trout, but 

 did not catch any. Shonk shot and badly wounded a 

 mudhen, and by hard work managed to catch her. It was 

 great sport for us to see Shonk chase the poor hen; he hit 

 I her the first shot, but it took three shots more before he got 



her, and then he caught her. Shonk insisted on having 

 the hen cooked, and his wishes were complied with. The 

 meat looked as if it was good, but Shonk could not go it. 



Shortly after dinner two hunters who had been camp- 

 ing on We,st Canada Creek arrived in camp, They were 

 hungry, so Clark cooked them some dinner; lie also 

 brought out the remainder of the mudhen which was 

 left over from dinner. They devoured the mudhen with 

 great relish, though one of the hunters said that the par- 

 tridge was quite tough. 



Aug. 24.— Zack and Shonk arose at 4 A. M. and went 

 out on the lake to try their luck at trolling for lake trout, 

 They had got about one mile from camp up the lake, 

 when they saw something black moving in the center of 

 the lake. They rowed as quietly as possible and soon 

 saw that it was a large buck. As luck would have it 

 Zack had his shotgun along, loaded with buckshot. They 

 rowed for the buck, which was making for the shore. 

 When the deer struck the bottom he started at a furious 

 pace for the woods. Zack gave him one barrel of his gun 

 and knocked him down. Shonk got out his big knife 

 that he bought for such occasions, saying that if he 

 could not shoot a deer he would cut one's throat. We 

 were aroused at camp from our slumbers by the loud 

 cries of Shonk and Zack and the reports of Zack's gun 

 and Shonk's revolver. We got up and dressed as soon as 

 possible and started up the lake to find out the meaning 

 of so much noise. When we came in sight of them we 

 saw Shonk and Zack embracing each other in great 

 shape. We reached the boat in a few minutes and wei*e 

 overjoyed to see a large buck lying in the bottom of the 

 boat. Clark said that it would weigh over 2001bs. Clark, 

 Steen and Shonk went fishing for trout on the Jessup's 

 River and returned at noon with forty-six fine trout. 

 Clark said that as long as we had so much venison on 

 hand we would not hunt deer until we had eaten up what 

 we had, as he did not believe in wastefully slaughtering 

 game, and we agreed with him. 



Shortly after dinner a fellow with his pack horse 

 arrived in camp with two hunters and their baggage. 

 They were going to the big Stillwater on the West Can- 

 ada Creek for a week. When the pack horse arrived in 

 camp we saw a chance to get rid of some of our surplus 

 venison. We sent half of the buck that we killed in the 

 morning to a friend of Clark's who kept a hotel; we 

 would have sent it to our friends at home, but the rail- 

 road would not carry it unless one of us accompanied. 



About 7 P. M. four chumps arrived at camp, without 

 any guide. They acted as if they intended to stay and 

 made themselves at home. Clark'had guided one of the 

 party in former years. They were very tired and hungry 

 from their twelve-mile tramp. Clark got supper for them. 

 We played the good Samaritan and cut balsam boughs for 

 their beds. When we demanded an explanation as to 

 what they expected to do in the woods without a guide, 

 they said that they were informed by the hotel keeper at 

 Piseco that we were coming out on the morrow (which 

 was not so). We informed them that Clark was under 

 pay for five days yet, and we expected to stay our time 

 out. They were very sorry that they had intruded on us. 

 Clark was compelled to vacate his berth and sleep on the 

 floor, which he did very gracefully. 



Aug, 25. — The clergy arose at an early hour and went 

 out trolling for trout. After breakfast we conferred with 

 the clergy. They said that they did not want to intrude 

 on us, but as they had walked twelve miles to get in the 

 woods they did not want to face that twelve-mile trail so 

 soon. We also thought it was pretty hard for them to 

 take the back trail without catching a fish or getting a 

 shot at a deer, all because of a misunderstanding. Of 

 course they could stay at Sj)ruce Lake as long as they 

 wished, as the woods are free to all in this country, but 

 the boats and cook are not. We proposed that Clark 

 should bake up a batch of bread for them and leave them 

 to shift for themselves at the cabin, while we concluded 

 to go to the West Canada Creek, to a camp on the Little 

 Stillwater. This camp belongs to the Barkers, who keep 

 a sportsman's resort at Jock's Lake. Clark said the camp" 

 would probably be unoccupied, but if it was not we would 

 buiid a shanty. 



We got started at 2 P. M., and after a hard walk 

 reached the camp at 4 P. M. We were happy to find it 

 unoccupied. We all went fishing, while Clark was busy 

 getting supper. We returned in about an hour; our com- 

 bined catch numbered forty-three good trout and about 

 10,000 chubs, the still Avater seems alive with these pests. 

 After supper Clark told me to get my nerves steady for 

 it was my turn to float for deer. At 9 P. M. we started 

 out. I sat in the bow of the boat, while Clark sat in the 

 stern paddling. Not a ripple could be heard as we 

 glided over the smooth surface of the still water. We 

 had not gone far when we could hear a t-jplashing in the 

 water, which Clark said was made by a deer. I could 

 feel something creeping up my spine. I forced it back, 

 for I knew it would lead to "buck fever." As he kept 

 drawing nearer and nearer I could hear my heart beat, 

 and was afraid that the deer w-ould hear it also. As we 

 rounded a bend in the stream, about four rods off stood a 

 young deer. I gave him a charge in the side, near the 

 shoulder, he ran out of the water, but Clark said he was 

 a dead deer. We went to the spot where he went out of 

 the water, here we found blood in large quantities. 

 Clark said he was lying down a short distance away, as 

 he could hear liim moving. We kept quiet for about 

 half an hour, then we took up the trail of blood and 

 found the deer about- six rods from the shore, stone dead. 

 I was surprised to find him so small. I thought he was 

 as big as a horse when I saw him in the water. Clark 

 said that he would weight about I401bs. I was somewhat 

 chagrined to find that I had kiUed the smallest deer that 

 had been killed (for I was the largest of the party). 



Aug. 26. — We were aroused from our slumbers early 

 this morning by Shonk, who came running into the 

 shanty saying that he had seen some wild pigeons' down 

 by the creek; he caught vip a gun and ran out, shot two 

 shots in rapid succession. He came in again all excited 

 and said, "Give me another gun, quick. There are two 

 more left yet." 



"Here," Clark said, "let me go with you and see if you 

 haven't been shooting little Molly birds instead of pig- 

 eons." They went out, and as we did not hear the report 

 of Shonk's gun we concluded that it was a bad case of 

 pigeon fever. In a few minutes Clark returned with a 

 broad grin on his countenance. It proved as Clark had 

 said, the pigeons turned out to be Molly birds. After 

 breakfast Zack and Clark went out on some woodcock 

 I grounds to try their luck with a dog, while Shonk, Steen 



