274 JOURNAL OP THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
ripened, being to ensure the whole of the buds breaking. Now 
as we want the buds to form fruit spurs, it is obvious that they 
should be as weak as possible ; and bearing in mind the fact that 
the more one prunes away the stronger will the growth be from 
the remaining buds, let us err rather on the side of cutting away 
too little rather than too much. Certain varieties of Pears — for 
example, Marie Louise and William's Bon Chretien — may have 
their shoots left full length without any fear of the lower buds 
remaining dormant, whilst others, such as Jargonelle, Beurre 
Superfin, Catillac, &c., would, if the shoots were not shortened, 
have perhaps half their length entirely bare, the buds having 
failed to show any sign of life. This is equally true of various 
kinds of Apples and Plums. 
EsiKilier -trained Trees. — These should have the leading 
shoot pruned back to about 14 inches from the top pair of 
branches — i.e., of course, provided the proper buds can be found 
there to make growths to form the next pair ; if not we must cut 
where the bud is, be it an inch or so higher or lower. The side 
branches, which are about 1 foot apart, should be treated just in 
the same way as the cordons already described. I trust I have 
made it clear that the pruning of a cordon or espalier tree 
should be the exact opposite of that recommended for a 
standard tree, for the simple reason that in the case of a 
standard tree the result which one wishes to obtain is cjroioth, 
Avhilst for the already formed trained tree one wants short 
fruit simrs. 
Summer Pruning. — I have no hesitation in saying that, as 
ordinarily carried out, summer pruning is the main cause of our 
garden fruit trees being unfruitful, whereas if properly done 
it should have the most beneficial effect. All side shoots of 
cordons, and side shoots from the branches of espalier or other 
trained trees or pyramids, should be gone over during the 
season of early growth (May) and pinched back with the finger 
and thumb nail to three leaves. These shoots will then com- 
mence to grow again from the upper buds, and should be 
pinched back to two leaves (making five) ; sometimes a third 
pinching is necessary in a wet autumn, when growth is pro- 
tracted until late in the season. The result of this treatment 
will bo that the side shoots will be thin and weak, and so pre- 
