RASPBERRIES. 



355 



through the summer, and on no account should digging be 

 allowed near the roots — it is a bad practice ; and, if the ground is 

 cropped, care must be taken to keep clear of the roots. And here 

 I may remark that the plan adopted in market gardens of only 

 planting G feet apart has great advantages, as it prevents over- 

 cropping and preserves the roots from getting injured, as at that 

 distance there is no room for a crop in between. 



Soils, Pruning and Training. — Much diversity of opinion 

 exists as to the latter, and I do not attempt to give the 

 only best method, as much depends upon individual circum- 

 stances, space, strength of canes, and aspect. The Raspberry 

 delights in an open, sunny position, and not too dry or light a 

 soil — a good loam of fair depth, and not on gravel ; and though 

 ground may be prepared by making it suitable, deep cultivation 

 is essential to success. The Raspberry, if grown in poor soils 

 and situations, develops weak canes yearly, and the produce is 

 not satisfactory. Large fruit should be aimed at and secured 

 by timely attention to details, and by the introduction of improved 

 kinds to take the places of worn-out stocks. Of late years Rasp- 

 berries have received more attention, greater quantities being 

 required for preserving purposes, and I consider this a healthy 

 sign, as I feel sure home-growm fruit should find a ready market. 

 The foreign importer being unable to despatch these soft fruits 

 in a ripe state, it gives the home-grower an advantage, and when 

 growing on a large scale he w T ill be careful to choose those 

 varieties most suitable for the purpose. I believe one of our 

 largest growers for market scarcely trains his Raspberries 

 at all, but merely ties a few canes together — a plan, which, 

 if adopted, readily enables one to gather the fruit when ripe. 

 Others arch their canes over, but very few large growers use 

 stakes or wires of any kind. No doubt in private gardens the 

 neatest way is to put a stout post at the end of each row and 

 strain a couple of wires to support the canes, or in country 

 places where young larches can be obtained they last a long 

 time and are not heavy. Hurdles are also good when made of 

 light iron, and last many years if kept painted. A neat and in- 

 expensive method, if planted a good distance apart, is to place 

 three or four stakes along the row, with a single wire attached, 

 and to tie two canes together, forming a bow, tying them to the 

 wire to keep them in position. The fruit may be readily gathered 



