NOTES AND ABSTRACTS. 



827 



grass (Lolium percnne) t which is sown in the ratio of a kilogram to 100 

 sq. metres ; if sown along the sides of walks, one kilo, may be used for 

 80 to 100 metres' length. On little grassplots where the grass is required 

 to be fine and close, 2-4 kilos, can go to 100 sq. metres ; but the closer it 

 is sown the less resistent is the grass to drought. Ray-grass is only fit 

 for deep, moist ground. In dry, sandy, shallow soils a lawn can be made 

 from a mixture of the following : Bromus pratensis, Boa pratensis, Festuca 

 duriuscula, F. ovina, F. tenuifolia, Cynosurus cristatus, Agrostis vulgaris, 

 A. stolonifera, Anthoxanthum odoratum, Trifolium repens. Bromus 

 pratensis is well adapted for dry, calcareous soils where all other grasses 

 die. Beneath trees with tall shoots whose tops are not too closely crowded 

 good lawns can be made with Festuca duriuscula, Anthoxanthum odoratum, 

 Boa nemoralis, and B. angustifolia. If the position was at once shaded 

 and dry it would be advisable to add Festuca heterophylla and F. tenuifolia, 

 which are more resistent than the three first named, but have the draw- 

 back of growing in isolated tufts. 



Ground prepared for lawns should be broken up as much as possible, 

 so as to render it permeable to air and moisture, and the surface levelled. 

 It should be left fallow for some time before sowing, so as to have time to 

 subside and rest. 



Lawns can be sown either in spring or autumn, but for dry lawns 

 it is best to sow towards the end of September ; on small plots where the 

 ground is good and can be watered, one can sow all the year round. 

 When the seed is small in amount, or some difficulty is experienced in 

 sowing it evenly, it is best to sow it mixed with fine sand or soil. 



In order to keep the lawn in good condition the following must be 

 adopted : — 



1. Weed carefully at end of winter and summer, eradicate all grasses 

 which are forming taproots and radical leaves adpressed to the ground, 

 e.g. Medick Grass, Plantains, Sow-Thistles. 



2. Mow or cut the grass so as to prevent the seed maturing. 



3. Boll, and if possible water, after each mowing. 



4. Manure from time to time according to fertility and soil, either with 

 coarse stable manure in autumn, or with ash, or phosphatic manures. 



In vineyard localities and in proximity to the sea Gynodon Dactylon 

 can be used. At Naples and in Sicily lawns are planted with Convallaria 

 japonica and Mesembryanthemum acinaciforme ; but one cannot walk over 

 them, as the leaves of the latter plant break under the tread. Byrethrum 

 Tchihatchewii makes very fine carpets of a dark green tint, and Achillea 

 Millefolium, when sown thickly, gives the same appearance, but has the 

 defect of growing rather too high. — W. C. W. 



Laying-out of Home Grounds. By L. Cranefield (U.S.A. Agr. 

 Exp. Stn. Wisconsin, Bull. 105). — Here again we have Mr. Cranefield at 

 his best in his suggestions for laying-out and planting of home grounds — 

 excellent advice clearly recorded. Apart from the aesthetic, there are 

 other and more material reasons why grounds should be made restful and 

 attractive, not the least being the additional pleasure derived from them 

 and the increased value of the premises arising from such improvements. 



Several illustrations are given showing the improvements that have 



