THE SPRING FLOWER GARDEN. 



25 



spring flowering plants is the fact that they are usually softer in colour 

 that the ordinary summer bedding plants, and blend together better ; 

 there is not so much danger of producing harsh contrasts. Although 

 in the Aubrietias, Myosotis, and Violas we get various shades of blue 

 which require much care in grouping and are often better if kept a 

 good distance apart, fortunately there are many flowers of neutral 

 tints which can be arranged between them. 



It is a good plan if the beds are large to use a few dot plants among 

 the Wallflowers and other tall growers to lighten the arrangement 

 after the Tulips have finished flowering. Such things as Carex 

 riparia variegata, variegated Honesty, variegated Crown Imperial, 

 Hemerocallis fulva variegata, Iris foetidissima variegata, Phalaris 

 arundinacea variegata, P. a. elegans, Scrophnlaria Scorodonia 

 variegata, and Symphytum officinale variegatum are used for that 

 purpose. 



The number of varieties used in one bed must depend largely on 

 the size. As a rule the bands of colour should not be less than one 

 foot wide, and of course a large group of one colour should occupy 

 the centre of isolated beds. In order to carry out the arrangements 

 properly on the lines recommended above it is necessary to have a 

 reserve garden for propagating and growing the plants through the 

 summer. This should be in a moist situation, some of it shaded 

 through the hottest part of the day, with a good working soil. We 

 are fortunate at Belvoir in having a large kitchen garden, part of 

 which can be spared for the purpose, but that would not be possible 

 in many places. Propagation must begin early in the year for some 

 plants, especially the Aubrietias, as these should not be transplanted 

 or pulled to pieces between the middle of April and the middle of 

 October. If done between those dates they require the greatest care 

 to keep them alive. I therefore keep a reserve stock for propagating 

 from, and commence as soon as severe frost is over, usually about the 

 beginning of March. Small pieces of Aubrietia with roots are care- 

 fully planted, and make good plants 6 inches and upwards in diameter 

 by the time they are wanted for planting in the autumn. The same 

 remarks apply to Arabis, Alyssum, Carex, Daisy, Fesiuca, Holcus, 

 Phalaris, Phlox ' Newry Seedling,' Phlox amoena, Phlox subulata and 

 its varieties, Saxifraga (all kinds in the list), Viola, Violets, and Wald- 

 steinia. They may all be increased by division at the beginning of 

 March and will make good plants for planting out in the following 

 autumn, but none of them are so particular about the date as the 

 Aubrietias — in fact all the others will usually succeed if done when 

 the beds are cleared in May. That is the time, however, when I 

 generally secure my stock for propagating from the following spring. 

 It saves labDur considerably if it is done early. The Aubrietias, 

 as I have said previously, are very difficult to move after the 

 middle of April. They are planted as quickly as possible on a 

 insist, shady border, and receive every attention in order to keep 

 them alive, but after all is done they will turn brown like 



