THE COOKING OF VEGETABLES. 



523 



THE COOKING OF VEGETABLES.* 



By C. Herman Senn, F.C.A., F.R.H.S., &c. 



[Read September 9, 1913 ; Mr. J. Hudson, V.M.H., in the Chair.j 



It has been stated more than once that there are vast numbers of 

 English people (though I should naturally not include the Fellows of 

 the Royal Horticultural Society among them) whose knowledge of the 

 vegetable kingdom is chiefly confined to potatos and greens, and to 

 only one method of serving even these. 



So far as the typical English cuisine is concerned, it cannot be said 

 that the average English cook displays the same acquaintance with the 

 many ways known of serving those delicious and appetizing vegetables 

 as does the Continental cook, who prepares them with so much skill 

 and delicacy. We are far too conservative in our ideas of vegetable 

 cookery in this country, and the sooner we can induce our family 

 cooks to be more liberal-minded in this matter, the sooner a greater 

 variety of vegetables and better ways of cooking them will be 

 attained. It is a matter of regret that both the preparation and 

 cooking of vegetables is so often left to incompetent servants. 



Stem Vegetables. — Some of you may remember that last year when I 

 had the pleasure of speaking to you, I divided the subject chosen into 

 four divisions, namely : — Root and Tuber, Stem, Leaf, and Fruit 

 Vegetables. On that occasion I discussed the cooking of Roots and 

 Tubers, and I promised to deal with Stem Vegetables this year. 



Practically the whole of the edible stems of vegetable plants prove, 

 when properly cooked, very delicate eating, especially when first 

 blanched, as with celery or chicory. Slow cooking, viz. steaming or 

 stewing, is essential in order to preserve and develop the flavour. 



Asparagus is probably the best known example of a delicate edible 

 stem. There are many kinds, the white, the green, and the violet. The 

 violet is the most expensive because of its size and flavour, but the 

 green asparagus has decidedly more pronounced taste. Asparagus 

 grown in this country is usually of excellent quality and decidedly better 

 in flavour than most of that grown on the Continent. The only pity is 

 that its season is so very short. On the other hand, asparagus not of 

 our own production, but of our skilful neighbours across the Channel, 

 is obtained practically at all seasons. " Paris Green," the name given 

 to a favourite variety of choice French forced asparagus, can be had 

 throughout the year, but it is nearly always expensive even at times 

 when there is a glut of other varieties. 



The finest French asparagus is the famous " Argenteuil," a large pink 

 variety, which is grown in the proximity of Paris, from whence also 

 comes what is known in the trade as " Giant Asparagus " ; these varieties 

 * See also Journal R.H.S., vol. 38, p. 540. 



