190 



JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 



It may be urged that the labour of watering would be a serious item ; 

 not so much, may I say, as one would surmise. It would be an excellent 

 practice for our young gardeners to have a little careful training in 

 watering. There is far too much of what might be termed slopping 

 in its place at present, and water is given either in excess or at the 

 other extreme. To be trained to exercise caution in respect of this 

 important operation would be productive of good. When grown under 

 glass it is not advisable to plunge the pots at all, but rather to depend 

 upon sounding the pots as to the requirements of the plants. With a 

 i it tie practice and observation it will be found a comparatively easy 

 matter to manage the watering. 



When the fruit is seen to be freely swelling it is well to apply a 

 stimulating manure ; in fact, a mixture of chemical manure, such as 

 has been already alluded to, may be safely applied as soon as the fruit 

 is set ; but it must be in very small quantity indeed, a mere dusting of 

 the soil. This may be repeated three or four times during the swelling 

 of the fruit. At intervals a weak solution from the farmyard manure may 

 be applied. This will foster leaf development for another season. As soon 

 as it is seen — by the amount of water that the trees require — that some 

 top-dressing would be beneficial, it is a good plan to make up a mixture 

 of good turfy loam, a little lime rubble, and either hop manure or some 

 stable manure that is well spent. This should be applied as a top- 

 dressing around the sides of the pots, and may be raised to a height 

 of two inches above the pots, being pressed down firmly. Into this the 

 roots will soon find their way and add to the vigour of the tree and 

 the size of the fruits. When the fruit is all picked in every instance 

 give one or two applications of the chemical manure mixture, so that 

 its constituents may be assimilated by the tree for the ensuing season. 

 In dealing with artificially compounded stimulants that are of a genuine 

 character it is most essential to guard against any excessive use. 

 Many err in this and defeat their own good attentions by too frequent 

 applications or by using too much at a time. 



Potting should be done during the late autumn — say, by the end 

 of October, or even later if the foliage is not well ripened. I have 

 frequently been asked if we repot our trees every year. My reply is, 

 " Yes, we do, unless it be in the case of a tree that has not borne any 

 fruit." Such a tree does not usually require to be potted, but may 

 stand over for one season. We use a claw-scratcher with which to 

 reduce the balls sufficiently to allow the trees to be replaced in the 

 same pots, unless it be in the case of a tree which is particularly 

 vigorous, when a size larger of pot is used. We guard against employing 

 pots of large size. I think we have no pots in use measuring more than 

 14 inches in diameter. If I were growing in pots cherries that are not 

 forced I might use larger pots— say, up to 18 inches— but nothing larger 

 than that. In potting the soil is rammed firmly and well; it is work 

 that cannot be rushed through in a hurry. Should the ball of any tre9 

 Ik found to be dry it is well soaked prior to potting. After potting one 

 or two good waterings are given and occasional syringings when the 

 w. it Im i- is ine end dry. The wood must be kept from any indication 

 »f Bhrivelling, and the last of the leaves ought to be preserved for a 

 little tun- , if possible. The soil itself should be mixed a few weeks in 



