THE HOLLYHOCK. 



399 



as soon as the plants are of sufficient size, bearing in mind that if this 

 can be accomplished by the end of August or the early part of September 

 so much the better, as the plants will be enabled to become well rooted 

 and established before the winter sets in. For although the Hollyhock 

 may be considered under this treatment quite hardy, I have known it to 

 succumb and wither away when planting is deferred until late in the 

 season. The plants require plenty of space in order to develop their large 

 spreading foliage. They also like an abundance of air, which is indeed 

 essential to a healthy growth ; hence a distance of not less than 3^ ft. 

 apart is absolutely necessary. Little further remains to be done but an 

 occasional look after a grub similar to that which attacks Lettuces and 

 other plants during the autumn. If left undisturbed it will work great 

 havoc and mischief, but its presence may easily be detected, as the plants 

 will show symptoms of flagging and withering from the root, being all but 

 eaten through ; but it can easily be arrested by removing a portion of the 

 soil with a pointed stick a few inches from the surface. Keep the soil 

 well stirred by frequent hoeings during the spring months. Secure the 

 plants against boisterous winds with a strong stake about 4 ft. in length, 

 tying the plants to it as growth proceeds. Give copious waterings with 

 liquid manure during dry weather whilst the buds are forming ; a mulch- 

 ing of stable litter will also be of great service in assisting the plants to 

 open their numerous flowers and also in prolonging their flowering season. 

 Thin out the buds where crowded, leaving them evenly distributed up the 

 spike ; where large flowers are required the top of the spike may be 

 shortened, but in doing this we are also shortening its duration of flower- 

 ing. Remove all lateral shoots from the stem, and where not required for 

 propagating purposes all lateral shoots from the bottom are better cut 

 away, leaving one spike only to each plant. Continue the watering even 

 whilst in bloom, should the weather remain dry, as this will enable the 

 uppermost buds to open into good flowers and then produce a handsome 

 spike of three or more feet of flower length. 



Perhaps it may not be out of place here to give the definition of an 

 ideal spike as set forth by the late Mr. W. Chater in one of his old 

 catalogues. "In judging, the first point I notice is the individual flower 

 on the spike, the petals of which consist in their being of a thick substance, 

 the edges smooth and even ; the florets occupying the centre must be full 

 and compact, closely arranged, rising high in the middle, and of a globular 

 form, with a stiff guard petal extending about half an inch, or in proportion 

 to the size of the centre ball, so that the different parts of the flower 

 present a uniform appearance. Second, the arrangement of the flower 

 on the spike should be regular, not crowded together in a confused mass, 

 nor loosely hanging with open spaces between each flower, but so disposed 

 that the shape of each may be distinctly seen when fully blown, the 

 uppermost covering the top ; nothing can add more to its beauty than a 

 few small green leaves, which give it an elegant and graceful appearance." 



The plants, having finished blooming, may be cut down, and if 

 intended to flower a second year they will need protection during the 

 winter, so that rain or snow can find no lodgment at the crown, as, if it do 

 so, the plant will rot away ; a covering of bracken or short stable litter is 

 a very good protection. If the soil is wet or of a heavy retentive nature, 



