EDIBLE FUNGI. 



497 



again, it must be urged that very few cooks of the ordinary kind can cook 

 Mushrooms properly, so as to retain their delicious aroma and flavour 

 when sent to the table. It may be urged that all Fungi of the Mushroom 

 type are liable to rapid chemical changes, and deteriorate very speedily 

 after being gathered. It is a maxim which should be remembered, that 

 the sooner Mushrooms are cooked after they are gathered the better, and 

 that they are never so good as when firm, fresh, and crisp, almost with 

 the morning dew upon them. 



The common Mushroom, Agaricus campestris, both in the wild and 

 the cultivated form, is subject to considerable variation. Possibly this 

 variation is more or less stable. That which was classed by Berkeley as a 

 variety, under the name of pratensis, has been found in two localities in 

 Britain, if not more. It is distinguished by the small rufous scales of the 

 pileus, and the flesh has a slight pinkish tinge. It is known also in Italy, 

 where it has been recognised and described as a distinct species, under the 

 name of Agaricus pratensis (Vittadini), but I have never seen it. Hence 

 it is too rare to be of much interest to us, except as a curiosity. 



(3) Another variety has been called silvicola, also a native of Italy, 

 and there regarded as a distinct species under the name of Agaricus 

 silvicola (Vitt.) ; it is occasionally found in this country in woods. It has 

 a smooth shining pileus of a creamy white, and soft, like a kid glove. The 

 stem is longer than is usual in the pasture Mushroom and swollen at the 

 base. It has a similar flavour to the Mushroom, as I have proved by 

 experiment, and certainly is quite a distinct variety, if not entitled to 

 rank as a species. It is nevertheless too rarely met with to be depended 

 upon as an esculent. It is of interest, whether as a variety or as a species, 

 from its woodland habit, the typical Mushroom being confined to the 

 " open." 



Berkeley also figured and described a peculiar variety to which he has 

 given no name, which has a rufous pileus, and the flesh turns a bright red 

 when cut or bruised. The gills are at first white, and not pink, finally 

 becoming dark brown. Single specimens are now and then to be met 

 with ; but, if I am not mistaken, it is not to be recommended as an esculent, 

 as I have proven that a single small specimen may disagree with the 

 stomach, which is not only my own experience but also that of some of 

 my friends. 



(4) I need only refer to one other which has been called a variety of 

 Agaricus campestris under the name of villaticus, known in France, 

 and described there as Agaricus villaticus (Brondeau). I venture to think 

 it entitled to rank as a species. I have received it and eaten it two or 

 three times with great pleasure. It is a large species, in each case fully 

 nine inches in diameter of the pileus, which is about as scaly as the 

 cultivated Mushroom, with a thick firm flesh and a pleasant odour. Once 

 it was sent to the Scientific Committee and was collected in a coal-cellar. 

 At another time I had specimens which were found growing out of the 

 wall in a coal-cellar near Tottenham Court Road. In all the cases in my 

 experience they were found in a coal-cellar. Unfortunately, in this 

 instance also it is found but rarely, or if found is never recorded. 



(5) Agaricus el vensis (Berkeley). It is now many years ago since the 

 Rev. M. J. Berkeley discovered and named an Agaric as Agaricus elvensis, 



