HARDY NYMPHAEAS. 



867 



the many other hybrids, are some of the best for effect through a long 

 season. The common white water-lily Nymphaea alba is two or three 

 weeks behind the earliest hybrids, showing a gain in length of season 

 which is even more remarkable in autumn. It is the end of June or 

 beginning of July before the forms of the odorata section are much 

 seen and odorata sulphured often waits until August ; but when once 

 started this class flowers well into the autumn with such others as 

 pygmaca Hclvola and Brakleyi rosea. Nymphaea odorata sulphurea I 

 have always noted to be the last in flower, and quite a bold one it is 

 with large yellow vanilla-scented cactus-like flowers, rising well out of 

 the water. In colour some of the Nymphaeas vary from day to day. 

 'Aurora ' and the Laydekeri section open pale in colour and darken 

 each day with age, so that sometimes three distinct colours are seen upon 

 the same plant ; on the other hand, the Marliacea section grow paler from 

 day to day. 



Not only are these hardy water-lilies valued on account of their 

 beautiful flowers, but for their handsome foliage as well ; for in such 

 varieties as ' Arc-en-ciel,' Andreana, liicida, Bobinsonii, chromatella, and 

 odorata sulphurea the leaves are beautifully marbled and spotted. 



Though some of the finer hybrids make few side crowns, and thus 

 increase very slowly, others grow very rapidly and may be freely divided, 

 the offsets being cut away with a piece of the old rhizome, or root-stock, 

 attached. Those of the Laydekeri section are extremely difficult to 

 propagate, as they make but few offsets ; but some produce seed freely, 

 and are easily increased in that way, the seed being sown as soon as 

 it is ripe. Many are sterile, and can only be increased by division 

 of the roots, which work is best accomplished in the spring, and when 

 new growth is assured. 



If a pond or water-garden is impossible many of these charming- 

 plants may still be grown in tubs. For this purpose the Laydekeri 

 section and pygmaea forms will be most suitable, as they are of compact 

 growth. Tubs or half- casks for water-lilies should be as wide as possible 

 and about 2 feet deep, allowing for soil, with not less than a foot of 

 water over the crowns. A very pretty effect can be obtained, if a grass 

 plot is available, by sinking the tubs into the ground, forming a background 

 with Bamboos, Arundos and Eulalias, and other foliage plants, with a 

 few tubs of other aquatics, such as the single and double flowered arrow- 

 head, the flowering rush, Typha minima, &c. If it is possible to do 

 so, and for convenience in keeping the tubs filled, a trickle of water 

 might be made to pass from one to another, and so both time and labour 

 might be saved. By sinking the tubs frost is easily kept out by a 

 covering of boards overlaid with straw, reeds, or mats whenever necessary. 

 With regard to' the hardiness of all these beautiful hybrid water-lilies, 

 there can be no doubt. I know of places where they are cultivated in 

 tubs not sunk in the ground and without any protection in winter. They 

 have been frozen in solid blocks of ice, yet the plants have not been 

 injured in any way. It would be better, however, not to run this risk 

 with any valuable varieties. 



Though free from many enemies of the garden, water-lilies have foes 

 of their own which must be held in check. All waters in which they 



