MEXICO. 



417 



lassos to It, and not only preserve the balance, but aid in drawing it. The mules and horses 

 are never littered ; they sleep on plank or stone ; a curry-comb is unknown, but the animals 

 are frequently washed. 



It is to be remarked, that although the horses and mules are generally excellent, yet this de- 

 scription does not always apply to those furnished to travelers. Mr. Poinsett had occasion 

 thus to describe " the progress of dulness " ; " We set off at a gallop ; this lasted till we 

 cleared the gates ; it was then sobered into a trot, shortly after into a walk, and at the end of 

 4 miles we stood still." The same traveler had afterwards to send back for one of his ser- 

 vants, who was found asleep upon his horse, the horse having favored him with a rest of some 

 hours. Man and horse were found motionless as the statue of Charles the Fourth, that stood 

 in the great square of Mexico. The country ladies often ride upon the same horse with a 

 gentleman, though there are no pillions ; the gentleman rides behind, supporting nis companion 

 with one arm. It is also a common mark of politeness to put his own wide hat on the lady's 

 head, and tie up his own with a handkerchief. 



11. Character, Manners, &c. The character of the Mexicans is as much mixed as the 

 races and colors of the people. They are ardent, generous, and hospitable, but not as the 

 Europeans are hospitable ; the Mexican asks you to his house, and requests you somewhat 

 hyperbolically to consider it and all that it contains as your own, yet he never gives a dinner 

 to welcome the arrival of any stranger. Having introduced him to his house he has done all 

 that he feels it incumbent on him to do ; yet he is never better pleased than when strangers call 

 without ceremony or especial invitation. Every succeeding visit of this kind gives an agreea- 

 ble insight to Mexican life. It is in social intercourse, that the character of a people may be 

 the best learned. 



A Don, even in Mexico, has something of the dignity of his chivalric origin, — with the 

 stately he is stiff, yet he never fails to meet all advances of those who seek his good will. All the 

 ceremony that is to be expended upon him is called for in the outset ; and if Mr. Poinsett's de- 

 scription be exact, the Mexican grandee is easily conciliated. Poinsett remarks, " Sir Archy 

 may have bowed lower but not oftener in a day than I have. Remember, when you take leave 

 of a Spanish grandee, to bow as you leave the room, at the head of the stairs, where the host 

 accompanies you, and, after descending the first flight, turn round and you will see him expect- 

 ing a third salutation, v/hich he returns with great courtesy, and remains till you are out of sight, 

 so that, as you wind down the stairs, if you catch a glimpse of him, kiss your hand, and he will 

 think you a most accomplished cavalier." 



The Mexicans are a cheerful race, and in this respect resemble the French more than any peo- 

 ple of America ; their parties or tertulias are lively and easy. The 

 Mexican is ostentatious in his dress and in his equipage ; bis car- 

 riage, with 4 large mules, stands harnessed for hours in his court , 

 not to be used but to be seen. The trappings are not, indeed, 

 in the best taste, for they are overloaded with shining plates of 

 brass, and the tails of the mules are enclosed in stout, leathern 

 bags. The pannels of the coaches are often painted with some 

 classic subject ; the favorite one of late is Guide's Aurora. The 

 gaming spirit, and an indolence natural to the south, has reduced 

 many old families in their circumstances. This has been so 

 grievously and perhaps generally felt, that the laws have provided 

 " a national establishment for affording temporary relief to per- 

 sons in pecuniary distress." This is no other than a pawn-brok- 

 ing institution, which is under the direction of a respectable ec- 

 clesiastic. The rooms are filled with articles of great value, — 

 services of plate, one piled upon another, — gems, jewels, pic- 

 tures, furniture, statues, crucifixes, and everything that denotes splendor and decay. The 

 court is filled with applicants, of which many come to obtain the means of gaming. A stran- 

 ger in Mexico is struck with the appearance of the milliners' shops, where 20 or 30 stout men, 

 in moustaches, are employed in making muslin gowns, caps, and artificial flowers. The for- 

 eigner is, however, less tempted to smile at another general custom, which permits the ladies 

 of Mexico to smoke cigars. At home or abroad, in the carriage, at the theatre, at balls, the 

 "iigar is always at hand. 



The demeanor of the Indians is grave and melancholy ; they have some taste for music, 



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