ON DIFFERENT WAYS OF STRIKING KOSKS. 



518 



planks 4 metres long and 20 centimetres wide, which are kept in place by means of 

 small pegs. To the space thus prepared I take the sand and earth and the leaf 

 mould and mix them up as thoroughly as possible; the bed is then made (mite level 

 with a rake, and the three rows of bell-glasses placed in a straight line by means of ;i 

 cord. 



Time for making Cuttings. — I only mean to describe here the striking of cuttings 

 under bell-glasses in the open air, and for this one may say, generally speaking, that 

 the best time is from about September 15 to the end of October, or even during 

 the first fortnight in November.* 



Choice of Shoots.— The choice of shoots is of the first importance, and may be 

 summed up as follows :• — All the shoots of a Hose are not equally fitted for making 

 cuttings of : they should not be too thick or too slender f ; it is to those of a medium 

 thickness between the two extremes that preference should be given, as the more 

 likely to take root. It should be notieed also that the cutting with a heel is more 

 likely to root than one without ; the more so, as there always exist at the base a certain 

 number of latent eyes which will afterwards develop into vigorous shoots.J 



Making the Cutting. — I give the preference then to cuttings with heels, and I cut 

 them with four eyes, their length depending on the distance apart of the eyes on the 

 shoot, which varies a good deal in different varieties. The two lower eyes should be 

 under the ground, the other two above are guarded to a certain extent by their leaves ; 

 it is sufficient to leave one pair of leaflets. Sometimes it happens that on account of 

 extreme dryness the Hose bushes have lost most of their leaves, in which case 

 cuttings made without leaves, but of the same length, will strike just as well. 



Planting. — The cuttings are made separately according to their varieties, and dis- 

 tinctly labelled. Before planting them it is necessary to tread the soil well, that is to 

 say, stamp it down sufficiently to make it adhere firmly to the base of the cuttings, and 

 then to level it quite smooth so as to exactly fit the base of the bell-glasses. When this 

 is done the planting of the cuttings is proceeded with. They are put in with a dibber 

 about the size of one's finger. They are placed in lines about 2 to 3 centimetres 

 deep, and from two to three apart. It is important that the earth be firmly pressed 

 round the base of each cutting. The planting of the cuttings should at once be 

 followed by a plentiful watering, since the success of the whole thing depends upon 

 this. The bell-glasses are then put on and kept constantly elosed to keep the 

 cuttings close, that is to say, to keep them as much as possible from the air, and to 

 keep their wood from shrivelling up and getting dry through evaporation, for every 

 cutting whose bark shrivels may be considered as lost. 



Later Treatment.— At the end of September the sun is sufficiently strong to make 

 complete shading of the bell-glasses necessary. At this time of year, that is, for the 

 first batch of cuttings, one shades for a fortnight with matting ; afterwards with 

 hurdles, as long as shade is required, which is to about the end of October. Look at 

 the cuttings from time to time, and see that damping-off and mildew are not 

 damaging any of them ; remove any fallen leaves and any weeds that may have come 

 up in the soil. 



When the cold begins to get more severe, about the end of November or beginning 

 of December, it is wise to cover the bell-glasses with dry litter, only leaving just the 

 tops of them uncovered ; and these should be covered at night with mats. In the 

 winter, whenever it thaws, give them as much light as possible. Towards the second 

 half of February, when the temperature becomes milder, entirely remove the straw 

 from round the bell-glasses, go over the cuttings afresh, and give them air whenever 

 the sun shines. In the latter fortnight of March the cuttings have rooted and begin 

 to push their buds; at this time the glasses may be entirely removed in the daytime 



* 1 make cuttings from the time when the blooming is over, so long as the frost 

 has not hurt the leaves of the Hose bushes. — V-M. 



f The reasoning of the author is very correct ; but we have been forced to strike 

 from all kinds of wood, and to sometimes try with wood that appeared too thick or 

 too slender. When one wishes to get many cuttings and has but few plants one 

 does not hesitate to try doubtful cuttings. -V-M. 



J This is true only as regards Hybrid Perpetuals. V-M. 



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