514 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL S0CIP7TY. 



mid replaced at night U necessary. This is the manner of striking Roses, plainly 

 stated. It only remains tor me to say how 1 treat the cuttings after they have been 

 struck. 



Intermediate Stave. In the first fortnight in April, instead of taking up the 

 cuttings and replanting them Immediately in the open, I make them undergo an 

 Intermediate stage by potting them in pots of 7i centimetres diameter and putting 

 them into a close frame for from fifteen to eighteen days. This treatment, which at 

 fu st sight may appear to bo of little use, is nevertheless of more value than might be 

 supposed, lor it enables us to obtain stock sulliciently vigorous and strong to send out 

 the first year. In the beginning of April, then, the cuttings are put into pots of 7£ 

 centimetres according to their different varieties. The soil used for this potting is 

 of the same kind as that employed for the striking bed, but of a Blightly heavier 

 description. The pots ait; put close together in a cool frame, which is kept shut for 

 about five or six days, at the end of which time the emission of roots will not have 

 failed to have started again in the pots; you can begin tQ give them more and more 

 air until the end of April, when the frames may be removed altogether. 



Winter Cuftimjs with Leaves. — I have found it necessary on many 

 occasions to make cuttings of 1 Souvenir de la Malniaison ' in the winter 

 (always before; the frost had touched the leaves) and in the open air, 

 under bell-glasses against a north wall, and always with great success. 

 The roots take a long time to form (about three or four months), but do so 

 regularly, and what is very interesting about it is, that cuttings without 

 heels take well, and that from some of the \erv Strong shoots lour, five, 



or even six outtinga maybe made. When it is not too cold, t he hell- 

 glasses are not covered ; on the other hand, if it is very cold they are 

 Covered with leaves and litter, only Leaving their tops uncovered, unless the 

 temperature should fall very low (12 to 15 degrees below zoro centigrade), 

 when they should be completely covered up. As to the other operations 

 which follow the taking of the cuttings, they are the same as those 

 described by M. (Jrosdemange. It would be impossible to put it better 

 or to describe more clearly the method of making autumn cuttings. In 

 OOrtain cases, whore the cuttings are fairly sure of taking, one can save 

 i he labour of repotting by striking them at once in pots. 



An excellent plan I have adopted with a view of still further simpli- 

 fying the number of operations is the following : In the open garden we 

 make a border running from east to west. It is lightly raked over, 

 drawing part of the earth to about the depth of five centimetres en to the 

 path. On this part, hollowed out in the border, we place the sand in 

 which to plant the cuttings, and cover them with little deal frames about 

 twenty centimetres high and iifty centimotres long by thirty wide. The 

 cuttings are planted inside these frames, which are then covered with a 

 sheet of glass. It is necessary, remember, to shade the cuttings thus 

 made, either (if you have plenty of labour) with garden matting, which 

 is put on every morning and removod every evening, or, what is better, 

 by constructing a permanent shade out of some light hurdles, or by 

 growing Scarlet Runners or Convolvulus on branches. The economy of 

 this method consists in the doing away with the repotting. When the 

 cuttings are rooted the sheets of glass and tho little frames are removed, 

 and afterwards the shading, and the Roses aro allowed to grow in the 

 open. This method creates plants which can bo simply dug up as soon 

 as the roots are sufficiently developed. 



