5GG 



JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



It is very important that the soil should not be left loose about the 

 stem and roots (▼), but firm treading does not mean hard ramming. 



It is very important to fill up the hole 2 or 3 inches above the general 

 ground level (v), and not leave a hollow for water to collect in and become 

 stagnant. 



It is very important to stake trees (vi) firmly, so that the roots are 

 not strained by the wind; but better not stake at all than so as to let the 

 stake chafe through the bark. 



It is better to lay the tree in, just lightly covering the roots up with 

 soil, for a time, than to plant when the ground is in a wet, sticky con- 

 dition or during frosty weather. 



No turf should be laid over the roots of newly-planted trees, but keep 

 the ground clean from weeds, and lightly stir it at intervals for two years 

 all over the surface one or two inches deep, to admit sun and air. 



The purchase of trees at markets and auctions cannot be recom- 

 mended. They may or may not be true to name, but their roots are 

 almost unavoidably considerably dried. 



Strawberries. — Strawberries should be planted in August or very 

 early in September. In planting, the collar or neck must be only just 

 below the ground ; and the roots should be well spread out on all sides. 



Raspberries. — When planting, spread out the roots ; shorten back 

 the canes in spring to a height of 6 or 9 inches, or to 3 or 4 buds. You 

 must not expect fruit the first season, but this treatment will ensure fine 

 fruiting canes for the next year. 



NOTE ON PRUNING. 



Apples, Pears, Plums, Damsons, and Cherries.— In order 



to promote strong growth Standard Apples, Pears, and Plums should have 

 their shoots shortened at planting to about one-third of their length, and 

 should not be allowed to bear fruit for 2 years. Damsons require little 

 priming, as the buds on the low T er part of the shoots break into growth 

 naturally. Cherries are best left unpruned the first season, and the less 

 1 hey are cut the better at all times. Young Bush trees should be treated 

 in the same way as stnndards, but older ones which have been several 

 years trained in a nursery will not need much pruning. After the first 

 year's growth has been made from the cut back shoots, Standards will 

 only need the removal in summer of shoots that cross or crowd one 

 another. Bush trees should have the side shoots on the branches shortened 

 to about G good leaves in July, cutting further back to 2 or 3 buds when 

 the leaves fall, and the leading shoots pruned to 10 or 12 buds. 



Strawberries. — When not wanted for planting, cut off the "run- 

 ners " as they appear, so as to throw all the strength into the main crowns. 

 Do not cut the leaves off. Fresh beds should be made every 3rd year. 

 It is a good plan to plant one or two fresh rows every year, and destroy 

 one or two old ones. 



Raspberries. — Thin out the young growths in early summer by 

 pulling vp the superfluous ones, and cut out the old canes altogether as 

 .soon as they have done fruiting. Manure should be laid over the roots 

 and left to decay. Raspberries are injured by digging amongst the fibrous 

 roots near the canes. 



Currants and Gooseberries.— lied and White Currants should 

 have the young side shoots shortened to 5 or 6 leaves early in summer, 

 cutting back to a couple of buds in winter, and shortening the main 



