VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 



567 



leading shoots then to G inches, more or less, according as it is wished to 

 let the bush increase in size or not. The centre of the bushes should be 

 kept quite free from growths. Black Currants should be pruned on the 

 exactly opposite plan, cutting out the old wood and leaving the young 

 summer growths their full length, only removing shoots in the centre, so 

 that the leaves of those remaining do not touch one another. Red and 

 White Currants bear chiefly on the old wood ; Black Currants on the new 

 (i.e. last year's) growth. Gooseberries bear both on the spurs and young 

 wood ; therefore in pruning leave a young shoot here and there where room 

 can be found or made by cutting out old enfeebled parts; but always 

 remember that the pruning should be so done that the hand can be passed 

 through all parts of the bush without touching the thorns. 



NOTE ON MANURING, &c 



It is a mistake to give young trees heavy dressings of manure, as the 

 ordinary soil of gardens is rich enough. For the first few years aim at 

 laying the foundation of a good tree ; keep the boughs rather thin, i.e. well 

 apart, not crowded, in order that the leaves maybe fully exposed to sun and 

 air, so as to ripen the wood, and thus form a sturdy basis for future good 

 crops. Some varieties will bear the second year, and may then be assisted 

 by manure laid on the surface after the fruit is well set, or by waterings of 

 liquid manure, or soapy water, &c, in summer, but fruit trees, young or 

 old, if they are growing and healthy, should only have manure applied when 

 they are bearing a crop, so as to enable them to bring the year's fruit to 

 perfection, and at the same time form fresh blossom buds for next year. 

 When trees make only 3 to G inches of extension growth they need generous 

 support; if 6 to 12 inches, give moderate assistance; if 12 to 18 inches, 

 give no manure. If a tree makes very gross growth with few or no fruit 

 buds do not cut back all the gross shoots severe!)', but thin them well out 

 in summer, and in autumn dig well down and shorten the strong roots by 

 root-pruning. It is a bad thing to dig amongst fruit trees with a spade, as 

 it injures the small fibrous roots which ought to be encouraged to increase 

 near the surface. These small surface (essentially fruit producing) roots 

 are greatly injured, either by digging or by extreme dryness of soil. 

 Spreading a covering of farmyard manure over the surface as far as the 

 roots extend, on the first approach of hot weather, cannot be too highly 

 advised ; but heavy coatings of dung during March, April, and most of 

 May are injurious, as they exclude the sun's warmth, which is then so much 

 needed to promote healthy root action. 



ARTIFICIAL MANURE. 



All fruit trees and bushes needing support will be benefited by an 

 application of 4 ozs. of Basic Slag and 1 oz. of Kainit per square 

 yard, as far as the roots extend, in the autumn ; followed by 2 ozs. of 

 Superphosphate and .1 oz. of Sulphate of Ammonia in February or 

 March. There will then be conveyed to the soil Lime, Phosphates, Potash, 

 Nitrogen, Magnesia, and a little Iron. In chalky soils or dry " hot " land, 

 Nitrate of Soda may be used instead of Sulphate of Ammonia, but a little 

 later, or when the blossom buds are expanding, another dressing may 

 follow if trees are heavily set with fruit. These dressings may be increased 

 somewhat or diminished according to the condition of the trees. It is of 

 small use applying the two first named minerals — Basic Slag and Kainit — 

 late in the spring, as they are then not dissolved in time for appropriation, 

 by the roots during the current season. 



