vi 



CONTENTS. 



mines — Anecdotes of discovering silver — Steam com- 

 munication — Canal through the Isthmus — Valparaiso — 

 Luxurious fare— A barbarous murder, and providential 

 detection of the murderers — Forest trees— Church made 

 out of one tree — Arrival at Valparaiso . . 42 



CHAPTER IV. 

 Climate and description of Valparaiso — First sight of the 

 Pacific Ocean — A glorious sunset — The town from 

 the heights — Female bathers in the Pacific — Table 

 d'hote politics — Commerce of Valparaiso — Silver-mines 

 in its neighbourhood — Steam-boat project — Voyage to 

 Callao — Fellow-passengers — An odd fish — A Newfound- 

 land dog — Callao bay — A fog-bank — Road to Lima — 

 Arrival there — Character of the " City of Kings" — 

 Winged scavengers ...... 65 



CHAPTER V. 

 Visit to the consul — Political highwaymen — Visit to a 

 fashionable watering-place — Hammock -swinging — 

 Gambling propensities of the natives of Lima — Bath- 

 ing — Irrigation — Coolness of the air of Lima, and its 

 cause — The Lima ladies — Singular costume — Cause of 

 the late revolution at Lima — A soi-disant Napoleon — 

 Return to Lima — Description of the city — The Plaza 

 — Indian sagacity — Palace of Pizarro — Convent — A 

 priest— The Alameda — The world turned topsyturvy 

 — Female smokers 86 



CHAPTER VI. 

 Plunder and politics — A lucky escape — Baths — Melan- 

 choly state of the country — Perpetual fear of brigands 

 — Obstacles to the journey — A queer cortege — Incon- 

 veniences of letter-carrying — Arrival on board the 

 Blonde frigate — Naval hospitality— A visit to the fort 

 — A self-elected president — Fatal mistake — Peruvian 



