SANTIAGO. 



59 



ingy on his way to Valparaiso^ and the following 

 mornings after waiting from six to eight for our 

 horses, they at last appeared in the yard, and, 

 in less than ten minutes after, we were outside 

 of the town. Besides the horses we rode, our 

 postilion had provided three more, for changing 

 on the journey ; for there are no posting-houses 

 between Santiago and Valparaiso. The day 

 was bright and cool, and our progress was 

 satisfactory. We crossed a high ridge of 

 hills, covered with the evergreen thorn, and 

 also observed the quillai-trees, some of which 

 were stripped of their bark, for the benefit of 

 the Chilean ladies, who strengthen and cleanse 

 their hair by a preparation of it. This under- 

 goes a fermentation, when mixed with water, 

 and produces a lather with rather an agree- 

 able smell. 



As we rode up this ridge we passed a cabriolet 



