THE ISTHMUS. 



223 



load^ that I peremptorily refused to advance a 

 step further until the muleteer contrived to hire 

 another. The mules and horses, which are so 

 proverbially good in other latitudes in South 

 America, appear at this place most degenerate. 

 The mules are not larger than asses, and the 

 horses are miserable scraggy-looking little weeds^ 

 of the worst shape, and in general as lazy as 

 the natives who ride them. 



The guide, who was on foot, was now be- 

 coming a little more sober, and increased his 

 own pace as well as that of the mules which he 

 belaboured perpetually with a stick. Having 

 crossed the Savannahs, which extend for about 

 two leagues out of Panama, we entered the 

 forest of wood among the hills. By this time 

 the clouds, which had gathered thickly above us, ^ 

 portending a storm, began to pour down over 

 our heads in a mighty torrent. In spite of 

 the thick foliage, we w^ere soon completely 

 drenched to the skin. The guide here aban- 

 doned his shirt, to keep it dry by thrusting 



