CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN POTS. 



6 9 



into the flowering-pots before they are too heavily rooted. The 

 latter condition unduly hardens the wood, and more often than not 

 a loss of foliage later in the season is the result. 



As soon as the roots are running freely they should be spaced out : 

 that is, placed in their summer quarters, sufficient space being allotted 

 to each plant to allow of its fullest development. If not given sufficient 

 room the shoots become attenuated and there is extra trouble in tying, 

 &c; needless to add, the plants should be staked at once, securing them 

 to wires running the length of the rows. 



Exhibition plants may with advantage be stood on tiles, or on 

 two battens, 2 or 3 inches apart ; this allows of the free egress of water 

 from the pots, and at the same time ensures the pots being free from 

 worms, which in the early autumn are often troublesome. 



Up to this point the treatment outlined is for all early -rooted plants, 

 Japanese, Incurved, Singles, or Decoratives, but I would point out 

 that in the matter of soil, water, and attention it should be a little 

 more generous for the exhibition plants or for large flowers, the 

 decorative types being kept just a little harder in growth all through 

 the season. 



From now onwards the exhibition plants will need considerable 

 attention, and on all fine days the plants should be thoroughly syringed 

 twice a day — about 10 and 3. This may seem early in the afternoon, 

 but I prefer to get the plants thoroughly dry before the evening, the 

 dews supplying all the moisture they require after the sun sets. 

 Syringing should be gradually discontinued after the third week in 

 August. Anything tending to soften the foliage too much should be 

 avoided ; in such a state it is more susceptible to mildew ; and I might 

 add that weak soot -water should be used all through the season for 

 syringing. Not only does this promote good health in the plants, but 

 it makes them less liable to attacks by insects and fungi. 



Watering at all times must be carefully and well done ; the plants 

 at no time should suffer from drought, but an excess of water at the 

 root must be as carefully guarded against. 



Tying must be regularly attended to, as the loss of even a single 

 shoot where there are only two, three, or four on a plant means a lot. 



During the months of May and June some varieties need a little 

 attention to get them to flower at about the right time for exhibition 

 purposes, and each variety must be studied. The later -flowering 

 varieties may need the points taken out perhaps a week or two before 

 they make a natural break ; others that naturally bloom too early 

 may need stopping after they have made their natural break, usually 

 some time between June 7 and 21 ; very few varieties require it later 

 than this. I do not recommend the practice of stopping early in the 

 season, say March or April, as it proves too severe a check whilst the 

 plants are in the small state ; whereas later, when they are stronger 

 and the weather conditions more conducive to quick growth, they 

 recover from the check more readily. 



The feeding of exhibition Chrysanthemums is a matter that must 

 not be neglected. The plants at no period of their growth should 



