178 



AMERICAN JOURNEY. 



[Chap. V. 



snowstorm came on before they started, but he did not wish to 

 give up. As long as they kept on the river the sleigh went 

 along rapidly : he admired " the natural roads from every- 

 where to everywhere else, smoother than railways, without pike 

 or trespass." When, however, they diverged through fields of 

 rough ice, and large holes covered with the new snow, they 

 found it impossible to proceed ; but he enjoyed the ride ex- 

 tremely, especially when they had turned their backs on the 

 wind and snow. " It is not every man that has ridden fourteen 

 miles on the St. Lawrence in a violent snowstorm." In the 

 evening he gave his lecture. On the morning of his arrival, 

 Father Chiniqui (the Father Matthew of Canada) had been 

 obliged to leave Quebec : the Catholic authorities had set 

 themselves against him on account of his heretical tendencies. 



The next Sunday Philip spent at Cote St. Paul, with Mr. 

 Higgins, a manufacturer who boarded many of his work-people : 

 he saw a new phase of life, and his sermon in the school-room 

 met a warm response. 



On his return to Montreal he caught himself saying "coming 

 home ; " but he left Dr. Cordner's hospitable roof the next day 

 for Ottawa, where he had arranged to lecture. Everything 

 was then unfinished in the new capital of Canada ; but he was 

 enraptured with its picturesque situation, and the effulgent 

 magnificence of a sunset scene, which was beyond anything 

 he ever saw, or expected to see. He wrote a graphic account 

 of the Chaudiere and Rideau Falls, which he explored at 

 some risk. At his lecture he experienced the unruly character 

 of American boys, whom he in vain requested the "Sons" (of 

 Temperance) to quell. He told them " how the Quebec 

 astronomer could not take the longitude of Hamilton properly, 

 because of the boys \ but found a place in Montreal ' not much 

 infested with boys, and those who did heave in sight were 

 perfectly tame.' " 



At Toronto he visited his old tutor and friend at York, the 

 Rev. W. Hincks, F.L.S., who was a professor of the new uni- 

 versity. He found himself in another climate, the winter there 

 having been unusually mild. From some mistake, the lecture- 



