180 AMERICAN JOURNEY. [Chap. V. 



same atmosphere. It was altogether unlike singing a liturgy, 

 which is simply to hide the individual tone. Here was prayer 

 clothing itself in its own musical utterance. It was just loud 

 enough to be heard through the still chapel, and that was all. 

 How different from the conventional tones of our ordinary 

 worship, the worked-up excitement of the Methodists, and the 

 receptive forms of the Catholics ! It was to me an entirely 

 new experience of worship." He slept at the house of a 

 former fugitive, and was much pleased with his refined manners 

 and those of his wife. The cottages he entered were neat and 

 clean, and he was satisfied with what he heard of the general 

 condition of the people. He made many inquiries respecting 

 the coloured people in Canada : and was also much interested 

 in ascertaining and noting the differences between them and the 

 people of the States. On his return to Toronto, he spent more 

 than a week with Professor Hincks, and preached for him at 

 the Unitarian Church, which he was then temporarily supplying. 

 He undertook to arrange the Mazatlan collection, which was 

 to be put by itself in the beautiful new museum : this occupied 

 him many days. 



He twice visited Niagara at this time — once from Hamilton, 

 when he stopped at a small Irish inn at Clifton, C.W., and 

 again on his way to Buffalo, when he lodged at a little German 

 inn * on the American side of the bridge. He writes (March 

 26, 1859): "Yes, I have seen Niagara! The dream of my 

 boyhood, the ardent wish of my mature life, the greatest 

 pleasure that I looked forward to, when rocked in the cradle 

 of the deep Atlantic, has been fulfilled. I have seen the 

 waters of a country nearly as large as Europe leap over a 

 rocky ledge, and hasten through their narrow channel to repose 

 in the deep hollow of the blue Ontario." He had resolved 



* " Thought I, 'If I can't go to Germany, I will learn their ways here.'" 

 He was so pleased, that at Buffalo he went to another German inn which 

 he had eyed from the station. " One gets a little more time to eat at these 

 places : they treat you with consideration ; and you are free from the 

 horrid ways of hotels." He elsewhere complained that, from the rapidity 

 of the Americans at their meals, they had often finished before he was 

 satisfied ! 



