i88 



AMERICAN JOURNEY. 



[Chap. V. 



outlines, in the distance [twenty or thirty miles off], which is 

 bounded by the hills of Vermont and New York ; the White 

 Mountains [of New Hampshire] are hidden by the Carmels." 

 He continually refers to the Carmels, etc., in his letters : he 

 thus named them from their resemblance to the pictures of 

 these mountains with which he had been familiar from child- 

 hood. In a partial valley of the Mountain were the cemeteries; 

 " the Protestant and Jewish on one slope, the Catholic on the 

 other." They did not then equal in beauty Arno's Vale at 

 Bristol ; " but, when prettily planted, it will be as beautiful a 

 spot as can be desired." The north side of the Mountain was 

 still thickly covered with snow; but the thaw had filled the 

 lower parts of the city with disgusting filth. 



It was Easter, and he was much impressed by the Catholic 

 services, especially at Notre Dame, which is not the Cathedral, 

 but the immense parish church, of Montreal. " From a boy," 

 he says, " I have been very sensitive to the effect of worship 

 with a large number ; and the idea of a grand parish church 

 where all are bowing in adoration of the ' Word made flesh and 

 crucified/ and where you are left free to utter forth the language 

 (or rather what cannot be clothed in language) of your own 

 spirit, comes up nearer to my idea of worship than any that I 

 have joined in elsewhere. ... In the Protestant Church, # 

 one minister pours forth his heart (we will hope) before the 

 Lord in the name of the congregation, while they join with 

 him, or wander; and this — just twice in the whole week. How 

 many hundreds and thousands of secret prayers are offered in 

 these Catholic churches . . . where the Protestant sees nothing 

 but formalism, priestcraft, and idolatry." 



He was " introduced to Mr. Clark, the (Catholic) Bishop's 

 English champion, who edits "The True Witness," set up in 

 opposition to " The Witness," the organ of the Evangelicals." 

 This gentleman kindly devoted much time to him, and took 

 him to various Catholic institutions. The Hotel Dieu, a. 

 hospital chiefly for infirm old people and orphans, under the 



* Had he been writing with deliberation, it is obvious that he might 

 have qualified this general statement. 



