212 



AMERICAN JOURNEY. 



[Chap. V. 



ness, and if not satisfactory to lynch them. Fortunately I 

 was shown a back way. I was a marked man from the 

 beginning : (i) Because I walked (which was generally allowed 

 to be best in theory ; but catch any of them doing it ! One 

 of the stage-horses fell down dead : all they cared about it 

 was that it delayed them on the road. Of course, none of the 

 lazy fellows smoking on the roof of the coach offered to walk 

 when they saw the poor beasts flogged : people who flog men 

 and women can't be expected to be very particular about other 

 men's horses). (2) Because I was an Englishman. (3) Because 

 I went out with my botany-box and umbrella, without any hat." 

 He explored the caves very thoroughly, and wrote a careful 

 account of them. On his first visit he was obliged to join a 

 large and noisy party : the usual habit of visitors, he was told, 

 "was simply to do the cave and make fun." He was ten 

 hours in the cave, and walked eighteen miles. Two ladies were 

 of the party. After luncheon " the gentlemen smoked. I ven- 

 tured to remark that it was a wonder the female part of the 

 population could do without smoking, while the men were 

 always doing it. Whereupon one of them said that the females 

 got their share. I replied, ' Yes, indeed ; and we men that 

 don't smoke have to breathe all the puffs that have been in the 

 men's dirty mouths ! ' This struck them all of a heap, and 

 there was a great silence. One of them then suggested that I 

 should be punished. I suggested, however, that I had punish- 

 ment enough in being obliged to walk through smoke all the 

 way through the cave, and it was agreed that should suffice." 



He had the pleasure of finding that the next room to his 

 own was occupied by Mr. A. Hyatt, a young naturalist whom 

 he had seen at Agassiz's museum at Cambridge, drawing the 

 animals of Unios, and again at Cincinnati collecting them. He 

 came from Baltimore, but now hated slavery ; and Philip had 

 much interesting conversation with him. They bathed together 

 in the Green river, where Unios, etc., were found. A great 

 many persons came to his room to see the Unios, "without 

 knocking or asking leave. One ' gentleman ' spat on the 

 carpet, close to my feet, so unexpectedly that I gave an involun- 



