STANDARD ORCHARD TREES. 



Ill 



have mentioned from fifteen to twenty years as the 

 probable time when the temporary trees may be re- 

 moved ; as this depends entirely upon the quality of 

 the soil and the progress they have made, a more cer- 

 tain rule to lay down is, that, as soon as the outside 

 shoots of the trees touch each other, the temporary 

 trees should be removed. I need scarcely write the 

 usual directions as to the trees being fenced round, 

 if horses and cows are turned into the orchard — that 

 the trees should have stems at least six feet in height, 

 and the lower branches should be taken off as soon 

 as they become depressed enough for cattle to browse 

 on them. One direction I feel, however, bound to 

 give — a circle from three to four feet in diameter 

 round each tree should be kept clear of grass and 

 weeds for at least five years from the time of planting ; 

 after that period, grass may be allowed to cover all 

 the surface, as in old orchards. 



In preparing the slips by trenching, if the subsoil 

 be poor and stony, it should not be brought to the 

 surface, but be merely turned over with the spade, 

 and some manure mixed with it, keeping the turf — 

 well chopped — and the loose mould on the surface. 

 If the soil be wet, drains four feet deep should be 

 made twenty-four feet apart, one in the centre of the 

 space between each row of trees ; they should be made 

 with loose stones, which are far better than pipes for 

 orchards. The bottom of the drain should be filled to 

 the depth of eighteen inches with loose stones, and 

 then filled in with the soil of the orchard. The soils 

 best adapted for orchard trees are, first, loams with a 



subsoil of limestone ; second, loams resting on a dry 

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