144 INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



and the Indians of the hacienda were within his cu- 

 racy. Again immediately upon our arrival the bell 

 of the church was tolled to announce his arrival to 

 the sick, those who wished to confess, marry, or be 

 baptized. This over, it struck the solemn note of 

 the oration, or vesper prayers. All rose, and, with 

 uncovered heads, stood silent till the last note died 

 away, all, according to the beautiful injunction of 

 the Catholic Church, breathing an inward prayer. 

 Then they bade each other a buenas noches, each 

 kissed the cura's hand, and then, with his petata, or 

 straw hat, in his hand, came to us, bowing respect- 

 fully, and wishing each of us also the good night. 



The cura still considered us on his hands, and, in 

 order to entertain us, requested the major domo to 

 get up a dance of the Indians. Very soon we heard 

 the sound of the violins and the Indian drum. This 

 latter consists of a hollow log about three feet long, 

 with a piece of parchment stretched over the end, 

 on which an Indian, holding it under his left arm, 

 beats with his right hand. It is the same instru- 

 ment known to the inhabitants at the time of the 

 conquest by the name of tunkul and is the fa- 

 vourite now. Going out into the back corridor, we 

 saw the musicians sitting at one end, before the door 

 of the chapel ; on one side of the corridor were the 

 women, and on the other the men. For some time 

 there was no dancing, until, at length, at the in- 

 stance of the cura, the major domo gave his direc- 

 tions, and a young man stood up in the middle of 



