A GREAT FAIR. 



191 



till Thursday, which was the day of my arrival, and 

 then it was computed that there were assembled in 

 the village ten thousand persons. 



Of all this crowd the plaza was the grand point 

 of concentration. Along the houses fronting it was 

 a range of tables set out with looking-glasses in 

 frames of red paper, rings and necklaces, cotton, and 

 toys and trinkets for the Indians. On the opposite 

 side of the street, along the square of the church, 

 were rustic arbours, occupied by venders having 

 similar commodities spread before them. The pla- 

 za was partitioned, and at regular intervals was a 

 merchant, whose shop was a rude stick fixed up- 

 right in the ground, and having another crosswise at 

 the top, covered with leaves and twigs, thus forming 

 a sort of umbrella, to protect its sitting occupant 

 from the sun. These were the merchants of dulces 

 and other eatables. This part of the fair was con- 

 stantly crowded, and perhaps nine tenths were In- 

 dians from the pueblos and haciendas around. Don 

 Simon Peon told me that he had entered on his 

 books a hundred and fifty criados, or servants, who 

 had applied to him for money, and he did not know 

 how many more were present. 



It may be supposed that the church was not un- 

 interested in this great gathering. In fact, it was 

 the fete of Santiago, and among the Indians this 

 fiesta was identified with the fair. The doors of 

 the church were constantly open, the interior was 

 thronged with Indians, and a crowd continually 



