194 INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



the appropriate motto, " Viva la Republica de Yuca- 

 tan," and strings extended like radii to different 

 parts of the boxes, wrapped with cut and scolloped 

 papers fluttering in the wind. On one side of the 

 ring was a pole with a wooden beam, from which 

 hung, by strings fastened to the crown of an old 

 straw hat, two figures stuffed with straw, with gro- 

 tesque masks and ludicrous dresses. One was very 

 narrow in the shoulders and very broad below, and 

 his trousers were buttoned behind. 



The toros, fallen into disrepute in the capital, is 

 still the favourite and national amusement in the 

 pueblos. The animal tied to the post when we en- 

 tered was from the hacienda of the senote, which 

 was famed for the ferocity of its bulls. The pica- 

 dores, too, were fiercer than those in the capital, and 

 the contests were more sanguinary and fatal. Sev- 

 eral times the bulls were struck down, and two, 

 reeking with blood, were dragged off by the horns, 

 dead ; and this was in the presence of women, and 

 greeted with their smiles and approbation : a dis- 

 gusting and degrading spectacle, but as yet having 

 too strong a hold upon popular feeling to be easily 

 set aside. The entertainment was got up at the 

 expense of the village, and all who could find a 

 place had liberty to enter. 



This over, there was an interval for business, and 

 particularly for visiting the horse-market, or rather a 

 particular section to which dealers sent their horses 

 to be exhibited. I was more interested in this than 



