14 



THE 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



January i, I g 9 g t 



Work for the Week. 



WARM ORCHIDS* 



At this time of the year it is best to leave the potting alone, and devote the 

 whole time to making everywhere sweet and clean. Wash the houses well with 

 hot water and soft soap ; then sponge every plant, and I am sure even from the 

 point of appearance they will repay for the trouble. It is a great wonder orchid 

 lovers do not grow phatenopsis more extensively, for they are among the most 

 beautiful of flowers. They are now throwing up their spikes, and require to be 

 watched closely. Slugs rather enjoy the taste of a nice young spike. Fog plays 

 havoc with the buds and flowers, so keep up a few degrees more heat to drive it 

 out. Cockroaches want keeping down, and I find Magic paste to be the best thing 

 for them ; in fact, no cne nowadays should be troubled very much with anything, 

 as we have so many good remedies to fight the battle with. Thrips and red spider 

 trouble us a great deal, and for the destruction of these pests we have XL All 

 vaporizer. Ventilation at this season of the year must be carefully studied. I 

 advocate bottom air at all times, unless the frosty winds are exceptionally cold, 

 and blowing directly on to the ventilators Do not give too much moisture, as 

 this without sufficient air creates spot ; in fact, keep the plants just sufficiently 

 moist enough to develop their flowers ; balance the atmospheric conditions by 

 throwing water underneath the pipes, but be careful about throwing any on the 

 pipes, as steam will do harm. The temperature at this time of the year must be 

 carefully considered. One day we are firing hard, and the next very little is 

 required, but the less fire-heat we can do with the better, though I do not like our 

 phalcenopsis to have less than 65 degrees of heat at night ; still, on some occasions 

 a few degrees lower will do no harm. The warm varieties of cypripediums 

 will do well with the same temperature ; in fact, this class nowadays have been so 

 worked on by the hybrid iser that one can hardly tell whether they are to be grown 

 warm or cool. Some grow certain varieties as cool orchids, while others treat 

 them as warm ones, and you will find them doing well either way ; and, again, 

 others fail to grow them well which ever way they adopt. Selenspediums require 

 a warmer temperature, and the watering of this section should be done very 

 cautiously, or rotting off at the bottom of the growths will result. This also very 

 often occurs when they are grown too cold and wet. A good plan when this fail- 

 ing is observed is to slit the leaf at the top in the middle and tear it clean away, 

 rubbing a little flowers of sulphur over the decayed part. The C. caudatum 

 hybrids and varieties occasionally fall a victim to this rotting, and a careful watch 

 over them is necessary. Very often in large collections, when there is so much to 

 examine, something becomes neglected for a short time and then mischief is done 

 by thrips, consequently it is well to fumigate with X L All occasionally whether 

 thrips are noticed or not. Hybrids of C. bellatulum are very apt to be troubled with 

 thrips, especially such varieties as C. Charles Richman, C. Schofieldiana, C. 

 Chapmani, and C. Chapmani magnificum and others of this class ; these are all 

 best grown at the warm end of the cypripedium house, where they require to be 

 very carefully watered and afforded a free circulation of air when circumstances 

 will allow. 



Dendrobiums will require plenty of fresh air, top and bottom, with the latter 

 ventilators open night and day ; this is supposing the plants are in a resting state. 

 There are many orchidists now who grow dendrobiums in warmth winter and 

 summer in order to obtain a stock, and this may be quite correct for the end in 

 view, but we cannot expect flowers without a period of rest. The flowers of many 

 dendrobiums will be advancing now, so if an early display is required a few may be 

 placed in a few degrees more of heat and brought on gradually, as this is far better 

 than exciting them, and the flowers will l>e better. A nice display can be kept up 

 at all times of the year with a little forethought, and if the orchids are intermixed 

 with a few adiantums and foliage plants they make a fine show even in the coldest 

 months. The temperatures now should be : Phalwnopsis house, night 65 degrees 

 and day 70 degrees, rising with the sun to 75 degrees; cattleya house, night 

 58 degrees and day up to 65 degrees, according to weather; Mexican house, a 

 lew degrees lower. Keep everything clean, keep a sharp look-out for pests, 

 ventilate as much as possible, and water sparingly. — T. Stafford, Tyntesfield 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



Owing to a mild, bright autumn, some difficulty has been experienced in 

 keeping back the ate hatch of chrysanthemums and other things either for the 

 production of cut .looms or for arranging in the conservatory. These must be 

 brought on gradually, and m sufficient quantities according to the demand and the 

 convenience available for doing so. Plants of chrysanthemums that have been 

 arranged rather thickly, or which have been standing in dwelling-rooms for some 

 time are not in a suitable condition to furnish sturdy cuttings just at present. 

 The bng, puny shoots should be removed at the time the (lower sulks are cut down 

 and the stools arranged near the glass m a cold frame or a fruit house that is at rest 

 I- or producing ordinary bush or decorative plants, the cuttings may be dibbled 

 .n o shallow boxes filled with sandy soil, but it is best to place a single cutting in 

 a thumb pot it .t is intended to grow for exhibition. In most cases the firstkS 

 of cuttings will have been taken for this purpose, and daily attention will be 

 necessary to see that they do not sutler for the want of moisture, and, on the o hS 



the ra nt. If it « an be done without causing the cuttings to (lag, a little air 

 5£ H t aff ° rded * t al1 ^es, which will allow steam to pus off, or the th s 

 should be removed for a short time each morning, and the glaTs dried before th t y 

 are replaced If .hecuttrngs are thoroughly watered when they are putin aid 

 the pots pa, ly plunged in hne ashes or cocoanut-i.hre, little wafer ing aftSnSa 



HI on r,T d rf HaVe f ° rmed ' at which ^ th ^ <* n »*nd more vent 

 lat ion, and there is little fear of them damping. Place newly -rooted plants in a 



Arum hlie?, a 

 plant* of lilacs an 



tot the next two \ 



in w% f y 



n vane y all kinds of bulbs, together with autumn-potted 



tee, will form the chief subjects to furnish the conservatory 

 th* ••,< «f f ' ma >' »* "ad in quantities at this season without 



prove morv* useful for decorat ng than when Uma n „„ ,„ „* "j 7?* I ' ln '> 



attempt should be made to for,-,. .1 f - now h ell filled with roots no 

 gradually untd \ i^^^^TSJ^ 7 ' they » h ° U,d be brOU £ ht on 



blind, or what flowers are obtained will be small and ill-formed. As the pla 

 come into flower they should be gradually moved into a drier atmosphere or fh 

 bloom will be pale in colour and soft in texture, and will not last long. For eivi 

 a bright display at this season few plants can equal pelargoniums. There are man 2 

 grand varieties now suitable for winter-flowering, but to have these perfect at th^ 

 season they must have been properly growing since the cuttings were struck last 

 March. It is surprising what a little water these plants require ; indeed, it is one 

 of the secrets in securing abundance of bloom to keep the roots rather' dry and 

 arrange the plants on a shelf in a warm dry house. Too much humidity creates 

 sappy growth and little bloom, whilst moisture in the atmosphere during winter 

 discolours the petals quickly, and they soon fall when cut. Weak liquid manure 

 about twice a week will assist them to build up stout flower trusses. 



Bulbs before being placed in the forcing pits should be made quite firm in the 

 pots by pressing the soil around them. It is not unusual for these to be heaved 

 up as ihe roots form, especially when they are put in thickly. By being made 

 firm and well watered before they are plunged in the forcing bed there is less danger 

 of them suffering for the want of moisture. Continue to ventilate freely late batches 

 of primulas and cinerarias, and fumigate the latter frequently. Keep bedding 

 pelargoniums rather dry, and admit plenty of air when the weather is mild.— R 

 Parker, Goodwood Gardens, 



THE FLOWER GARDEN* 



At the present time there are few flowering subjects in the open borders, the 

 most important at this season being varieties of Helleborus niger. Where the 

 flowers of these are prized for cutting, they should be afforded the protection of 

 a handglass, or some other improvised shelter. Oak branches, to which the 

 leaves still firmly adhere, may be cut and stuck in the ground around the clumps ; 

 these form a very good screen if placed thickly, and this somewhat darkened 

 protection causes the flower-stalks to elongate, and the blossoms to be a purer 

 white than when fully exposed, Snowdrops may be similarly treated. In the 

 pleasure-grounds strict cleanliness should be maintained. Where there are many 

 deciduous trees, all leaves should be cleared up and carted away without delay, 

 first raking up the leaves, and afterwards sweeping to leave a perfectly- finished 

 path and lawn. Beech and oak leaves are valuable for mixing with horse 

 droppings for the making of hotbeds, also for rotting down for potting use in the 

 form of leaf-soil, and these should be kept separate from such coarse ones as are 

 from the horse chestnut and similar kinds. While mild weather continues, walks 

 and lawns may receive attention. Where the latter are mossy, which is often the 

 case if the situation be damp and shaded, or the soil very poor, it should be 

 scratched up with a fine-toothed iron rake, and, after sweeping all off cleanly, a 

 top-dressing of fine loamy soil, wood ashes, and soot, should be applied, the two 

 latter to the proportion of about one-fourth of the whole. After mixing thoroughly, 

 spread the dressing thinly over the surface of the lawn, aud brush it well in with 

 new brooms. If the lawn is excessively wet, the finer grasses will not succeed, 

 and in this case the present time will be a suitable one for the work of draining to 

 be carried out. The ordinary earthenware pipes generally in vogue for this purpose 

 may be used, arranging for a proper outfall, and filling in over the pipes with a 

 few inches of rough stones, clinkers, or anything of a like nature ; or, failing the 

 pipes, these may be used alone in larger quantities. The drains should be from 

 two to three feet in depth, and run parallel at about thirty feet apart. 



In the absence of frost, uneven lawns may be made level, cutting the turves to 

 a convenient size for moving, and stacking them close to the portion to be dealt 

 with. This done, dig over the surface with forks a few inches in depth, adding 

 fresh soil if necessary. After raking quite level, tread down firmly, and carefully 

 relay the turf, and the latter should be beaten down quite firm. Gravel paths 

 may also be taken in hand now. Old paths having a sufficient depth of gravel 

 may be made to look like new if carefully turned two or three inches in depth with 

 flat-tined forks. Paths that require regravelling should first have the surface 

 broken up before applying the new gravel. This kind of work is best done in dry 

 weather. In the flower garden all vacant beds should be dug or trenched, and 

 so prepared to suit the kind of plants with which they are to be filled during the 

 coming season. For pelargoniums the soil should not be made over rich, other- 

 wise a rank, coarse growth will ensue, and very few flowers. Calceolarias and 

 other subjects quickly affected by drought should be placed in heavier and well- 

 manured soil capable of retaining moisture as long as possible. Beds and borders 

 intended to be filled with sub-tropical plants should also be freely manured and 

 deeply dug, as a bold and strong growth is .in .this case desirable.— C. HerRIN, 

 Drop more Gardens. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



In notes under this heading I shall in a great measure detail my own practice, 

 and readers of the Gardeners' Magazine should take into consideration the 

 locality and vary the work, so that in the north some of the advice given may be 

 somewhat m advance of the season ; but this will be a gain, as hardy fruit are 

 not always given timely attention, not because there is any desire to delay the 

 work, but from inability to do it owing to scarcity of labour and means. On the 

 other hand, in this department there is much saving of labour by doing work now 

 which, if left till spring, cannot be so well attended to. Hardy fruits deserve notice, 

 tor they form one of the best-paying departments in the garden, and one, I am 

 glad to see, has had ample space in these columns of late years. In writing on 

 the merits of fruits, I would also ask readers to note that these vary so greatly in 

 diverse soils that m giving any kinds a trial the soil should be considered ; locali- 

 ties also in a measure alter the character of hardy fruits, for in our case most kinds 

 are ripe much earlier than the dates usually given, and our light, gravelly soil 

 being largely answerable. The weather here has not been at all favourable for 

 outside work of late, there having been much fog and frost combined ; pruning 

 has been nearly at a standstill, but there is no lack of work needing attention, and 

 ihe frost promises to be of short duration, so work should not be delayed. This 

 reason our pruning is a slow business, as many of the wall trees have their branches 

 clo>c together, and with young trees crowding often happen-, as there is at time: 

 too much wood left in. To remedy this we have taken down the tree? from the 

 wails, lowered the branches, giving more room, and by so doing we shah 

 nave fcner fruits and cleaner trees. Crowded trees are so difficult to keep 

 clean, and m the case of cherries, figs, peaches, and nectarines, the 

 iruits come smaller and are consequently less valuable for the table. Now 

 good time to thin out old spur growth, and in doing this work select 

 growths farthest from the wall, giving each a clean cut to within an inch or 

 ot the base— the distance must be judged by the wood and position of the 

 spur— and the cut portion will next season push out a new growth close to the 

 wan, which, if stopped in due course, will make fruit spurs in a short time. On 

 tne other hand one cannot without injury to the trees remove many spurs at one 

 time, so the work must be done piecemeal. I do not advocate the old plan of 

 laying m all the young wood made by cherries of the Morello type, as crowding 

 is not advantageous, and in our case we spur back the weaker shoots, laying in 

 he stronger, and by so doine get fine fruit on the sours. 



thos 

 two 



