72 



GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 



January 29, 1898, 



Work for the Week. 



WARM ORCHIDS. 



Among recent introductions Dendrobium phabenopsis Schroderianum claims to 

 be of the greatest value, especially where floral decorations are largely carried 

 out ; for table decoration there are few flowers to equal it, and for a lady s 

 spray it suits admirably. In its principal season of flowering, and where a good 

 stock is grown it makes a fine display in the orchid houses. The general opinion 

 is, that this particular species deteriorates ; whether this is so or not, we can point 



the drooping varieties when grown in hanging baskets. Additional plants mavl 

 raised from seed annually, and if grown in a warm border outside the first seaJr 



season 

 the 



the best colours may be selected. Seeds should be sown at once to enable 1 

 plants to flower towards autumn. Fill a shallow pan with sandy soil, and make 

 level surface for the seed, which is very fine. Cover the pan with a piece of aw 

 and stand in a moist place where the sun cannot act upon it. Keep the soil moist 

 at all times, as the least drought proves fatal after the seeds begin to germinate 

 Cannas, too, have become very popular of late, and rightly so, as few plants are 

 more beautiful or easily managed. The seed being very hard it is a good plan to 



is, that this particular species deteriorates ; whether this is so or not, we can point steep it for twenty-lour hours beiore sowing. Give plenty of water, and pW e 

 to plants of ten years' standing which are still healthy and promise well for a long t h e pots containing the seed into bottom heat of 80 degrees. Do not allow laa 

 life. Dendrobium bigibbum, which is entirely of the same nature, has often been a year's roots to commence growth in a dark cellar or shed, where they have been 



source of anxiety to orchid growers ; for the first few years it flourishes, but in 

 course of time gradually decreases in strength and ultimately finds its way to the 

 fire. These dendrobes should have a long season of rest and should be kept at a 

 temperature of 60 degrees and allowed sufficient moisture to keep the bulbs plump ; 

 water only when necessary, and give special attention to ventilation. The bottom 

 ventilators must be left open night and day when the weather is favourable, in 

 order to keep the atmosphere as sweet as possible ; guard against draughts and 

 fluctuations of temperature. D. formosum giganteum is another grand and 

 favourite dendrobe, but like the former is not a good grower ; this may be treated 

 in the same way. D. Deari delights in a warm shady corner, such as the phalre- 

 nopsis house affords, and enjoys being syringed once a day, weather and tempera- 

 ture permitting ; keep the plants moist at the roots, and free from scale ; if this 

 pest makes its appearance give a washing with a solution, taking care not to injure 

 the leaves. D. Ainsworthi and varieties that were removed to a warmer house in 

 order to bring them on gradually may now be given still warmer quarters, and be 

 sprayed slightly over each morning and not allowed to become dry at the roots, 

 otherwise the spikes will go yellow and finally die. Those that are resting must 

 be kept at 55 degrees at night, allowing the temperature to rise a few degrees in 

 the day time ; these may be slightly syringed about once a week on suitable 

 occasions. Still allow the plants to rest, but simply to refresh them thus while in 

 a state of dormancy ; a few more of the most forward may be put into a warmer 

 house as before, in order to keep up the display. 



Cattleya Trianre and its varieties are now coming into flower, and may be 

 removed, together with Lselia anceps, cypripediums, &c, to the flowering house, 

 and kept in a temperature of about 55 degrees. Fumigate slightly if fly appears. 

 The phaLenopsis will now be coming into flower, so prepare neat sticks to support 

 the spikes, and intermix P. amabilis with P. Schilleriana to produce a fine effect. 

 Put down Magic Paste for beetles, otherwise you will have perforated flowers and 

 leaves, and the roots, which are so valuable, will be eaten off. Sobralias and 

 cymbidiums are now commencing to grow, so care must be taken in watering ; do 

 not allow them to get dry. Lselia anceps that have failed to flower will now be 

 throwing out new roots, and these may be rebasketed ; indeed, the sooner the 

 better, so as to enable the new roots to have full benefit of the fresh material. 

 Square baskets are required for this purpose, and the best orchid peat obtainable, 

 taking care not to injure the roots, and also to place the growing points as near 

 the middle of the basket as possible, not using more compost than is absolutely 

 necessary, otherwise it will become sour before the season is finished. Cypri- 

 pedium bellatulum, C. Godefroyie, C. niveum, and all this section must not be 



watered oftener than once a week under any circumstances if they are to be grown 

 successfully. 



The weather is still unsettled, so great precaution must be taken as to firing 

 and giving air ; still attend to sponging and keep pests well down, and thus obtain a 

 clean start for the year. A damping among the plants each morning, and on the 

 floors in the afternoon, but discretion must be used in all these small but important 

 requirements. Temperatures : Phal&nopsis house, 65 degrees by night and 

 70 degrees by day ; cattleya house, 58 degrees by night and 63 degrees by day ; 

 Lcelia anceps, 55 degrees by night and 60 degrees by day ; allowing all these to 

 rise or fall slightly, according to the weather. — Thomas Stafford, Tyntesfield 

 Gardens. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



Each week brings us nearer to the busy season when the striking o. cuttings 

 and sowing seed of different plants will require almost daily attention. To meet 

 the strain of work duiing March and April, attention should be paid at once to 

 soils of different kinds, placing them under cover, and mixing them ready for use. 

 For sowing small seeds, a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand may be 

 made ready now, and stored where it can be kept uniformly moist, but not wet. 

 By mixing these together, and then passing them through a half-inch sieve, the 

 bulk will be available for use at any time. The rough portion should be saved 

 for placing over the drainage. The same compost is also suitable for striking 

 most cuttings in if more sand is added. Suitable sized pots and pans may be 

 washed and crocked ready for use. It is a great gain to devote a small well- 

 heated pit or forcing house to propagation for a month or so at this season, but 

 where there is not this convenience or a melon or cucumber house, hot beds must 

 be resorted to, and the fermenting material should be collected at once, so that it 

 can be turned over several times before it is finally made up. Leaves, especially 

 those from oak or beech trees, are most suitable for the purpose, as they are not 

 so fiery as manure alone and retain an even temperature over a long period. One 

 load of stable manure to two or three of leaves makes a good mixture, and, of 

 course, the greater the bulk the longer will it continue to afford warmth. By 

 making up such beds now, it allows time for the rankest of the heat and steam to 

 pass off. ^ In the meantime, stove plants which have to furnish the cuttings should 

 be examined and thoroughly cleansed before new growth is formed, so that a 

 good start with clean cuttings is made, without which it will be difficult tc raise a 

 healthy batch of plants. Fuchsias which have been stored away since autumn 

 will have shed their foliage, and the wood should be quite firm and hard. These 

 make fine objects either in the greenhouse or flower garden when well grown, and 

 if the stock has to be increased an early start should be made to induce the old plants 

 to break. The unripened tips should be cut back to firm wood, and the loose 

 surface soil removed. Lay the plants on their sides and syringe them thoroughly 

 to dislodge any insect pest that may be lurking about them, and then arrange the 

 plants near the glass, where they can have a temperature of about 60 degrees. 

 No water will be required at the roots for a week or so, the buds being induced to 

 burst by spraying the plants over occasionally with tepid water. Other plants 

 which have been at rest may be started in the same way if the stock has to be 

 increased by means of cuttings. Soft- wooded plants, such as iresine, coleus, and 



the like, should be encouraged to grow before the tops are taken off, as the new 

 growth will strike freely. 



The store of tuberous-rooted begonias should alsojbe examined, and if any bulbs 

 are found that have commenced to grow it would be better to put them into small 

 pots filled with sandy soil, and stand them on a shelf in gentle warmth. The 

 bulk of the roots, however, should be kept dormant for another month or so. A 



j __, _ j B ^ been 



stored through the winter, but pot them up and remove into a light warm house 

 when it is seen growth has commenced. Unless large plants are required the roots 

 may be divided and potted into small pots, giving them larger ones later on.-R. 

 Parker, Goodwood Gardens. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



The remarkably open weather throughout the winter up to the time of writing 

 excepting a few days towards the end of December, has been eminently favourable 

 for all out-door operations, and where much planting of trees, shrubs, and roses 

 had to be accomplished, there has been little in the way of frost or wet to 

 hinder the work going forward rapidly. It is advisable to finish off the planting 

 of all deciduous subjects within the next few weeks, while those of an evergreen 

 nature, as rhododendrons, hollies, and others of this class may, if the planting be 

 effected in a l proper manner, be carried on successfully up to and including the 

 month of April. In the planting of new or improving old shrubbery borders the 

 early flowering species of shrubs should not be overlooked, as these often provide 

 useful material for indoor decoration, and are a decided attraction in the borders 

 in the early spring months. Among the earliest of the shrubs to flower are the 

 Japanese witch-hazels, Hamamelis japonica and H. arborea, which were in 

 bloom outside early in the present month. The leaf-colouring in autumn of these 

 shrubs is also effective. In sheltered situations the shrubby magnolias may be 

 planted, the white-flowered M. conspicua being one of the best and earliest. 

 Others are M, purpurea, M. p. Lennei, M. Soulangeana, all of moderately strong 

 growth, while M. stellata is a smaller white-flowered species of lesser growth. A 

 more often planted early-flowering subject is the almond in its several kinds, while 

 forms of Amygdalus persica flore-pleno, or double-flowering peach, in crimson, 

 rose, and lighter colours are highly ornamental as standards in the shrubbery. 

 Among the prunus P. Pissardi is a desirable form to plant, as, in addition to its 

 early flowers, the foliage which follows is of a rich dark purple red colour through- 

 out the season, and forms a striking contrast to other shrubs. The syringas, 

 better known as lilacs, flowering later, are general favourites, and during recent 

 years these have received attention, and several novelties, chiefly of continental 

 origin, have been added, some of which are worth planting where only the older 

 varieties obtain a place. The double- flowered forms are also distinct ; good ones 

 are Madame Lemoine and Virginal, double white ; and Leon Simon, double pink- 

 In single flowered, a dark purple acquisition is Souvenir de L. Spath, and Marie 

 Legraye is a very pure white. 



Many other flowering subjects may be mentioned as desirable for general 

 planting, the shrubby spiraeas for example should not be omitted. S. ari^folia, 

 flowering in June, is one of the handsomest of the species, the long sprays of 

 white pendulous blossoms being very effective when associated with other shrubs, 

 or equally so when used to form a specimen bush on the lawn. S. Douglasi, 

 producing in J uly and August flowers of a bright rose pink colour, is also worth 

 planting, as also is the newer S. Anthony Waterer. The Philadelphus, commonly 

 known as syringas, are valuable and highly scented flowering shrubs. P. grandi- 

 florus, with large, pure white flowers, is a handsome variety, although not so 

 strongly scented as is the older P. coronarius or Mock Orange. Standard haw- 

 thorns (Crataegus;, also in many rich colours of both single and double flowers are 

 now obtainable, and the common single white in large standards is very effective. 

 Among others may be mentioned Pyrus malus, and the John Downie crab; 

 Brooms in variety, Calycanthus floridus, Cercis siliouastruir. (the Judas tree , 

 Catalpa bignonioides, Cerasus padus (bird cherry), Halesia tetraptera, laburnums, 

 Viburnum opulus or guelder rose, Ribes sanguineum, and the late summer 

 flowering hibiscus with single or double vari-coloured flowers. One essential 

 necessary to the successful planting of trees and shrubs at this season, is that a 

 good mulching of half-rotten manure or leaf soil be applied after planting, whicb 

 prevents the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and also keeps the roots m 

 an equable temperature in the event of frosts occurring. 



Tuberous begonia seeds should be sown forthwith, if it is desired to raise plants 

 to use in bedding arrangements this season. Pans or small boxes are best for ttoj 

 purpose, and a f ter placing in the bottom a sufficient quantity of drainage, covered 

 with a little rough leaf mould or moss, fill up with a finely sifted mixture of loam, 

 leaf soil, and sand, in equal quantities. To destroy small worms, which are often 

 troublesome, subject the soil previously to fire-heat, or water the pans, after already 

 prepared, with boiling water, and allow it to stand five or six hours before sowijjj 

 the seeds. These latter should be scattered evenly over the surface ; cover ,\! 

 pan with a piece of slate or papered glass, and stand in a forcing house wne 

 there is plenty of heat and moisture.— C. Herrin, Dropmore Gardens. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



Planting will still occupy the cultivator's time, especially where new soil " 

 to be prepared or alterations of any kind may have delayed the work ; but 

 some soils planting at this season, and up to the end of February, has its ad*£ 

 tages, as the land may be in better condition, if wet or clayey, and the weal 

 remains open. We see how well nursery stock does when planted in Mar ; 

 but it must be borne in mind the trees are small, the roots are not eX P o5 *°a 



drying winds, and they receive ample attention during growth, In light » 



similar to our own, I prefer to do the planting as early in autumn ^.P 05 *^' 

 indeed, we lift our peach and nectarine trees while the leaves still remain, a** 

 suffer less from drought the next season. Many trees would be benefited by 

 lifted at this season, in prefer^ice to being left barren year after year. I am a 

 September and October are the best months for root-pruning. Circumstances 

 have prevented this, so my advice is to lift now the weather is favourable, ^ 

 with young trees, notably plums, apples, and pears, lifting is a necessity, ana ^ 

 in time save the excessive pruning so often practised. Many of the best kin ^ 

 apples and pears have pendulous growth, and if such are hard pruned the cy 

 poor ; yet one often sees these same varieties growing in orchards and dc*^ 

 freely. Of course, in lifting young trees at this season the work must be don ^ 

 fully, preserving the fibrous roots. I have recently lifted some plums plant ^ 



years ago, which should have received attention ere this ; but it is better 

 fV»_ — 4.1 1 1 ■ ▼ 1 -'trees or u 



food bitch of these arp v*>r_ nmam„, '1 • *u . TTW1,V 11UW "»u lose a year ana a crop aiso. in piannng new w 



b ood batch of these are very ornamental m the conservatory, especially some of planting older ones, by all means avoid giving animal manufe, ur in 



